Jul 24-28, 1789 Home Logbook Jul 30-31, 1789
Revised Jun 30 2021
Light northerly Winds. Three Men ill with intermitting Fevers. Mr. Max the Town Doctor attending Constantly. Mr Ledward our Own Surgeon being one of the Sick. Every proper Article is got for them that is necessary.
The Residence of the Emperor or Keyser as he is called, is at Backennassy a pretty place about 4 miles from Town. By appointment I paid him a Visit to day for I was particularly desirous to see him as he was the person whose nephew had caused the War that was in the Island a Short time since.
The Situation of Backennassy is very pleasant and airy with a pretty View of the Sea. The River which empties itself at Coupang runs through it, so that it is charmingly watered and produces a large quantity of Rice. The Country is exceedingly picturesque, but the Hills in general are very rocky and scarce soil sufficient to produce grass in the Rainy Season. I imagine I saw about 150 Acres of Rice, and in some places the Harvest is begun. About this part of the Country it is charmingly cloathed with Cocoa Nutts and other Trees. The Cocoa nutts and other Trees and [are] very fine, and the Trees I think bear greater quantities than in the South Sea. Plantains are also in great perfection and the Sugar Cane grows luxuriantly, but I cannot find that the latter is for any other use than eating, to which I attribute that only small quantities are to be met with.
The Bread fruit Tree which is a native of this Island as much as it is of Otaheite, grows with great luxuriance. I saw about 20 Trees some of which were larger than I ever saw at Otaheite. They produce identically the same Fruit; but from what cause I know not the Fruit is not so good. Equal sized fruit would weigh nearly one half heavier at Otaheite. It must certainly be owing to the soil. They are nevertheless very good and I have had several dressed since I have been at Coupang. The Natives eat them with milk.
This being the Height of the dry Season the Ground is scorched up in every place, so that not a blade of Grass is to be seen, it therefore is the cause that the Cattle are exceedingly Poor for they have nothing to feed on but leaves. The few sheep that are about the neighbourhood of Coupang are small and so are the horned Cattle except the Karabows or Wild Ox. The Horses are likewise small but are pleasant Travelling animals and are sure footed. Goats thrive here very well. Hogs are very scarce, and as Indian Corn is but thinly planted the Poultry is as poor as at any Island in the South Sea, unless they are particularly fed.
There is nothing merits my mentioning the reception I met with from the Emperor but his Civility. I found him to be an Elderly man. His dress was a Cheque Wrapper girded round his waist by a Silk and Gold Belt. A loose linnen Jacket and a coarse Handkerchief about his Head. His dwelling was the shell of a large House, which was only divided into three apartments surrounded by a Piazza. It was well situated but very dirty, and the few chairs and Tables that he had were in the same State. About a pint of Arrack was all he had, that however was the first thing he offered to me besides the Beetle. A few cheif Malays were with him, and after making some enquiries who I was and how I came to the Island; Tea was set before me with some Rice Cakes made up and fryed with Cocoa nutt Oil, some roasted Indian Corn and two Saucers of dryed Buffaloe Flesh. The Curiosities in the repast were the two last articles. The Indian Corn by the mode of dressing it turned the grains inside out and perhaps is the most tempting pretty Dish that can be put on a Table as a Desert altho a great deception. The manner of dressing it is this. Am Iron Pan is put over the fire into which a spoonfull of some oily substance is put. As soon as it becomes hot, about a large handfull of Corn is put therein and kept Stirring untill it has imbibed all the fat. The heat of the Pan having then nothing else to act upon but the Corn, every grain begins to burst and fly about for which you are prepared with a Cover which is laid on untill the cracking is over when the whole is taken out.
The Buffalo Flesh is so dryed that it is beat to thread and dust before it can be used. It is however very palatable, and might be eat on bread and Butter as well as Parmesan Cheese.
The repast was no sooner over than the Emperor with three of the Cheifs who had partook of it retired and after a short deliberation they came out and presented to me a round metal peice (4 Inches Diameter with a Star stampt on it.) as a present which of Course I readily accepted, a mutual compliment of bowing passed between us, and he appeared highly pleased that I could thank him in the Malay language.
As I knew liquor was of great Value among these people I was prepared to make my present, and I found the Arrack which I had brought for purpose to be highly acceptable.
As indolence forms a great part of the Character of the Malays so the Beetle is admirably well calculated to gossip away their time, it is always the first thing presented and laying aside the Tobacco it may be used without much disgust by any European whatever. No one dilutes any liquor, every kind of spirit is therefore drank in its real State, and habit has brought them to bear a large quantity at a time without being intoxicated.
As I desired to take a walk the Cheifs attended me, and I saw the Breadfruit already described. The only new Fruit I met with was the chermaila it is of a very agreeable tartness and acquires a Sweetness when Ripe grows in clusters from the main wood of the Branches, is about the size of a common goosebeery and is very fine for all the purposes of that fruit. The Tree is about 15 feet high. I saw a few Guava Trees with some Fruit on them. The Malay name of Gooyavas. The sugar cane they call Taboo.
To make the Trees in general bear fruit they chop the Trunk full of cuts just as deep as to get through the Rind. The Otaheiteans point a peice of hard wood a foot long and an Inch Diameter, and drive it into the body of their Bread fruit Trees to acquire the same end.
On the Death of an Emperor large Feasts are made to which the whole inhabitants are supposed to be invited. After a few days the Body is put into a coffin or long Box closely shut up and is kept for 3 years before the interrment takes place.
Since the Conquest the Dutch have endeavoured to establish Christianity. This Emperor was therefore christened Barnardus; his Malay name being Bacchee bannock, but I cannot help observing that it has gained little other ground in this Country except in the Town of Coupang.
The Island might be Valuable to the Dutch was it solely under their jurisdiction, but the Portugeze settlements in the north causes a great division among the Malays, it is therefore the case that what Trade might center at Coupang is carried off to the Portugeze. The Emperor himself declares that gold dust used to be a part of their Traffic, but even Bees Wax and Sandal wood would be Sufficient from the latter an Oil of a very high perfume is extracted.
The Indian or natural Malay Houses are some times built round and at others in the common way. Bamboos from generally the side and partitions and the Roofs are thatched. They are fond of Stone Fences which they make with little Trouble. The Villages and every ones property on that account marked out having a wall round them but as they use no mortar they are more or less always in disorder. From these Kind of Fences which are now desolate here are many proofs of it having been a more populous country that I now find it.
The Malays have not that cleanliness about them as is among the Natives of the Society and Friendly Islands, and owing to a want of it they are subject to the Itch.
Their connections with the Europeans have given them the Itch, Pox, and whenever it befals them it is attended with the most calamitous circumstances sweeping off vast numbers and desolating the Country. Other disadvantages they seem to labour under from this intercourse, they appear not to have that life and spirit which is the native character of these Indians. I even observed a vast difference between our friends here and the more independant Malays who live under their own Cheifs far back in the Island. Many of whom I have seen in Town on their own business who possessed the quickness and power of a Friendly Islander.
These People however have been taught mildness in their punishments, for in these Villages I have seen offenders put into the Stocks the same as in Europe. But the[y] use no Irons altho Coupang rings with leg ornaments on miserable run aways and others who have behaved ill.
I eat part of a nanka to day that weighed 20 lbs. It was very delicious and high flavored. The seed also were exceedingly good when roasted.
Jul 24-28, 1789 Home Logbook Jul 30-31, 1789