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Revised Jun 9 2021

Tobin's Providence Narrative Chapter 7

Otahytey

Chapter 7th

207 1792 July

Females congregate on board the Thetis – Men and women of Otahytey – Cleanly to a degree – Early risers – Children swimming – ratteras or Gentlemen – Dress and ornaments – Hair – Scissars – Teary – Mourning dress – War mat – Long nails – Population – Eareoye Society – Polygamy – Government monarchical – Erees – Towtows – Labour of the females – Cloth – Women do not eat with the men – Fishing lines, hooks &c &c – Weapons – Not warlike – Heeva dance, now Hoopaowpa – Musical instruments – Language – Short vocabulary – Songs – Priests &c &c – Missionaries – Laws – Diseases – Harwood administers to them – Insanity – Suicide – Not remarkable for longevity – The late Captain Clerke – Europeans left on the South Sea Islands – Account of natives visiting Europe – Omai – Natural deformity rare.

Thetis near Savannah March 1797

On a retrospect of the prededing sheets, it seems that I shall bid fair to weary you, and therefore the sooner they are brought to a termination the better; Yet cannot I quit these children of nature,

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about whom there are still a few more fragments to "organize," without a confession that, of late, I have derived no small degree of satisfaction in "trying back." You are not ignorant with what brittle materials the writer is constructed, and who has long fruitfully courted a motto, which most of his neighbours seem, without much exertion, to be in possession of, to "take things as he finds them." But t'wont do—nor will it to the "end of the chapter."

Ever, instead of pushing strait forward in the highway, is he serpentining it to one side or the other, nor without stumbling into dilemmas of an esurine complexion, requiring more philosophy to surmount than has been portioned to him from above. Yet, perhaps it is owing to what in our Squadron, is called the "blue devils." Where many long faces, have been long looking out for promotion.

For these several days it has been my sad fate to be annoyed by a group of females, who, indecorously, and without humanity, congregate in the environs, on board the "good ship Thetis" of a certain place called the Round House. Not that I could ever discover what affinity it has to a building bearing the same name on shore, save indeed, that afloat it is for the purpose of giving one case, and on terra firma to prevent our being troublesome."

However, in the hope that a dispersion will take place among these "fairest of Gods works," I shall, (if it meets the concurrence of my associates in hard suffering) beg their pity and consideration to the following petition, which, I most feelingly assure you, is written under great anxiety of mind, and contortion of body.

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  To the Washerwomen of the Thetis Where swell'd intestines seek to gain relief From indigested pease, or tougher beef, That falling on the watr'y surface fair, And in its progress od'rous fill the air. There stands a box, y'clep'd a Round House, small, And by sols beams, scarce visited at all. Where swine in concert–why so like the fair? But soft my muse, nor wound the female ear. Where Masters, Surgeons, and Lieutenants; all Fain would get ease, when nature makes a "call." Where Cooks, and mates of Cooks, in greasy throng, Crack the rude jest, or chaunt the noisy song. Where Jemmy Thompson† ever "rules the roast," When poor Welch‡ left us, for an "unknown coast," Why will ye fair ones wash, and talk, and scold, And eep in suds, ship scandal fearless hold? How, when our yearning tripes creak piteously, Have our fond hopes been damp'd by sight of ye, And lab'ring look'd for ease, been sore denyd, When through the Scuttle damsels we've espy'd. Forbear we cease, in pity to our grief; Ponder our case, and grant the sought relief. Don't let us sue, sweet beauteous dames in vain, Retire we beg, nor let us sit in pain? Then will we speak for ever of your charms, Pray that flat Culls may fill your "love sick" arms Or that, when Culls no longer are your aim, Gin may be cheap, and raise another flame. All this; and more, if such be your request, If you but give our teeming bowels rest. For when to disembogueing man's inclined. The power is lost at sight of female kind

[Marginal notes:]
† The Captains Cook
‡ A favourite Able Seaman who, in a fit of melancholy, jumped overboard from the Galley port and was drowned.

210 Otahytey

In my six foot cabin, so little air, and such few rays of light reach me through a scuttle of about as many inches that most of my functions are lucubratory, while the fumes of this tallow assistant rise not many inches from the olfactory nerve. This, it must be supposed, drives me frequently on deck to inhale the cooler air. Indeed, while the Thetis keeps in this quarter, eagerly seeking of Spanish gold, these sheets will be filled up but slowly; for it is not often I can steal an hour from my busy vocation, and since I began writing to you a hiatus of a fortnight or three weeks, has often intervened.

The men of Otahytey are of the middle stature; seeing them continually among our countrymen there seems no better standard to compare them by. The Otahytean is not more muscular and strong, but in activity and pliancy of limb he exceeds the englishman. By nature and habit they are indolent to a degree. Plenty is here as conspicuous as in any part of the globe, and when an Indian has only to visit a neighbouring tree to supply his wants, or, should he covet more favorite food, paddle a mile or two in his canoe for fish, we cannot be surprised at his hatred to exertion. To what view is it exercised in Europe, where this enviable indolence is unknown? By the rich from ambition—and by the poor, unfortunately, from want. Here, it is not required, and the activity of these Islanders is only seen in the hour of festivity, and sudden occasion.

The countenance is free and open

211 Otahytey

nor scarcely ever furrowed with care or reflection; If there is any characteristic in their features, as in those of most Indians, it is a flatness of the nose, yet so trifling as to occasion scarcely any distention of the nostrils; but this among themselves, is admired, and encouraged by a pressure when in a state of infancy. Their mouths are in general large, but in regularity of teeth they rival the universe. A dark penetrating eye is to be seen in the whole of them; in the women tempered by the most feminine softness; but, (which is the case with every description of people of colour that have fallen under my notice in various distant parts of the world) the white has not that clearness common to the european. The hair of both sexes is in general black, and rather coarse, but in many instances it was red, and brown. The women have been represented ads considerably under the middle size, but this I could not discover. In symetry of person, they are equal, particularly where age has not made its approaches, to the most critical imagination, was not the contour of the figure hurt, by the largeness of the feet, owning to their not being any way confined. Warrianow nor have I forgotten our Hottentot at the Cape—was a most interesting figure. She would indeed have been a bon bouche for the accademic Table at Somerset House.

They are cleanly to a degree, both sexes generally bathing thrice a day in fresh water and it is somewhat remarkable that, except the children for amusement, the salt water is never frequented but from necessity, and at these times, if a river be contiguous, they make a point of washing in it afterwards.

It is common to see the children at five or

212 1792 July Otahytey

six years of age amusing themselves in the heaviest surf with a small board on which they place themselves outside the breaking, whence they are driven with great velocity to the shore, fearless themselves, nor are the least apprehensions of accidents entertained by their parents.

We are taught in England that bathing during the suns heat is attended with dangerous effects. The Otahytean is a stranger to this doctrine. At the back of our encampment we had daily, when the sun was on the meridian, numbers of the softer sex refreshing themselves in the Matavai by the hour, as fearless of suffering from it, as unconscious that in a more refined country it would be considered as highly indecorous and subversive of morality. Very true, our fastidious damsels bathe enveloped in a machine. Yet, if my memory be right, I have somewhere read - and it is, I believe, to be found among the archives in Doctors Commons, of an English Eree being so vain of the finely moulded limbs of his wife that he could not refrain giving his Tayo a peep, through one of these machines, at them. Surely this wasd more like the pliant obliging South Sea Islanders that the jealous selfish englishman.

They rise with the sun, and the hour of repose is not much after it has set 'though they were sometimes found keeping "later hours." On these occasions the nut of the candle tree serves for light, the manner of using it being very simple. It is about the size of a chesnut, containing and [an] oily matter. Several of them being perforated, are stuck on a small reed which is lighted at the top, and

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and as the first nut is expended, the next supplies the reed with oil and so on to the bottom. It is (I believe) from this nut that the stain used in tatowing is prepared.

The Erees and ratteras (gentlemen) sleep on a mat with a small wooden pillow for the head in the form of a stool. In travelling, which is chiefly by water, a portable house, or shed is fixed on the prow of the canoe, scarcely large enough for two to sleep in. The Towtows sleep on the bare ground in the open air, wrapped in the country cloth, but in rainy or severe weather, ever chiefs house is open to them.

The dress of both sexes is of their own cloth, and different kinds of matting, the towtows scarcely using any thing but a girt round the middle. the Erees and ratteras are more extravagant in their apparel. The common, a piece of the thickest cloth, about three yards long and one in breadth, in the middle of which there is a hole for the head to pass through, is worn over the shoulders, the ends falling before and behind, leaving the arms at free scope. Some times a girt of matting or rope is worn over this, round the loins. The women dress with the finer cloth in many fanciful ways, and have generally a small bonnet (Tamowtow) made of the leaf of the Wharra (wild pine) as a protection from the sun. The male sex seldom cover the head, but the hair is encouraged to acquire considerable length, being either fastened in a bunch at the crown, or hanging loose down the back. It is frequently anointed with Cocoa nut oil (Monorey) as a perfume, as well as to promote its growth. The beard, except on the point of the chin, where it is allowed to grow, is eradicated, a few indeed were seen with it on the upper lip.

The women wear their hair shorter, but

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in various ways. They are as strict votaries to fashion as our own fair countrywomen, and have as many little interesting tricks of accidentally displaying their dress and figure. The superior orders are seldom without a fly flap of cocks feathers, serving to draw your attention to the prettiest hands conceivable. At other times their taper fingers are employed plaiting the palmetto leaf into a manufacture for hats: this last, they were taught by europeans, and it is now become quite an article of trade. It was the ton during the visit of the Providence to wear the hair in furrows like the waves of the sea, (Medey) and which had a pretty effect, yet was it seriously wished that the means by which it was effected had been removed, for, since the introduction of scissars, (paouty) these good girls have ever been clipping—one thing or the other—full as inviting, without being clipped. The finest eye lashes and arched eyebrows in the world, did not escape.

The prettiest ornament is a bandeau of the cape gesamine (Teary). In the morning after laving in the stream, and anointing the hair with cocoa nut oil, a flower of the Teary is stuck in the lobe of each ear, which preserves its fragrance the major part of the day. Great pains is taken in the culture of this plant. The ear is also ornamented by many with a pearl drop of a good size but inferior quality, are found about the Islands.

There are many peculiar dresses worn on religious, [warlike?], and festive occasions. The mourning dress (Parrhy) is the richest, the apron of it consisting of above two thousand small regular pieces of the bright part of the Pearl oyster shell. The helmet is decorated,

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in the form of a Glory, with the tail feathers of the white, as well as the red tailed tropic bird. Some hundred of these feathers are on one dress, and when it is considered that there are but two feathers in each bird that will answer, the labour must be great in procuring them. My good father has one of these Parrhys in England, that Edeea gave me and which I was fortunate to get home in excellent preservation. An examination of it will satisfy you more than any description I can give. You will also see the Tawmey (war mat or gorget) and several other South Sea articles.

Among other customs may be mentioned that of the superior people, like the Chinese, suffering their nails to acquire a greater length than those in a more subordinate situation.

The Island has all the appearance of an extensive population,+☉ and if every part is as well inhabited from Whapiano to Atahourou, which embraces a distance of about twenty miles, there must be forty or fifty thousand; and there seems no reason why it should not be supposed the case, as every part is fertile and productive near the sea. Plenty sheds forth its blessings to such an extent that agriculture is nearly as little known as required, but with very little exertion the soil would support double the number above mentioned. It is chiefly on the low plain encircling the rising hills near the sea (and which is a forest of bread fruit, that grows without planting) the native fixes his residence. The rest of the Island, by far the greater part, is scarcely ever seen by him; yet its soil is equal to produce almost every tropical fruit and grain. Except the Eareoye village at the foot of Otoos Horns, I never saw either hut or signs of cultivation four miles from the sea. In fact, generally speaking, the natives reside on the

[Marginal note:]
+☉ Captain Cook estimated the Inhabitants at two hundred thousand. In 1797 Captain Wilson in the Duff, at rather above sixteen thousand. In the "Transactions of the Missionary Society 1804["], at only eight thousand. And in [blank], Turnbull at a still inferior number. The Annual Register 1804, speaking of the reduction in the Inhabitants of Otahytey, observes, "We believe their principal reason to be wars between themselves"

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margin of it. Yet have you been given to understand that they are in dread of an over population, to prevent which and keep and equality of the sexes, every other female is destroyed at its birth. I can only say that such a custom never came within my knowledge or observation, and on reference to the chiefs on the subject they uniformly declared that the children of the Eareoyes, whether male or female, were the only ones doomed to this early fate; nor could they be perswaded of the inhumanity of the custom. An Observation may be hazarded, which is that, there appears no reason why the females should exceed in number the other sex. They are both subject nearly to the same accidents, the same diseases, war, which in some countries may occasion a disparity is here but little destructive. The sacrifices indeed, we were told were always of the male sex, but they so seldom occur that joined to the very few slain in battle it cannot make so great a difference in the sexes as that the destruction of females is necessary to keep up the balance—without, and this is too intricate a research for your humble servant—and indeed to the profound, who with critical eye explore the dark crevices of nature—little more than an amusing speculation. It could be proved, that at Otahytey a greater proportion of the female sex are really brought into the world. And here, I cannot keep saying that in my walks about the Island where houses have been teeming with children, there ever appeared an equality. Besides, in an Island where polygamy is encouraged and indulged in by most of the chiefs, and better sort of people; indeed by every one whose circumstances and inclination lead him, it is difficult of belief that means should be taken to limit it. I may indeed be told that, where

[Marginal note continues:]
"and the neighbouring tribes; a tremendous Epidemic which not long since raged with peculiar mortality; the abominable crime of infanticide, and the paucity of females to males; a paucity so extreme, as that the latter are supposed to exceed the former in the proportion of ten to one. Whence we may infer that infanticide is far more

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polygamy is general in a country, more females are born—but I am wandering from my narrative, nor without bidding fair to get out of my depth. Yet, one observation shall not be witheld, as it aims at controverting the above position, of more females being born. If a physical cause be assigned for it should it not apply to to the animal creation? It does not appear to be the case.

When our sea stock of chickens are brought on board, there are generally an equal proportion of either gender; this is also the case with our hogs, our sheep, and our goats, yet the man who sold them declares that, there is only one soverign chanticleer in his farm yard; and the same of the quadrupeds. He then ensnares a covey of partridges. Still do I see an equal number of either gender, although it is well known, the old ones paired early in the spring and that, the male bird is free from the charge of infidelity?—How is this?

The Government of Otahytey is monarchical, and perhaps in no part of the globe is the hereditary prerogative of royalty more zealously attended to. At what age the heir apparent becomes Eree da hy (King) or assumes the reins of government, I did not learn, but until it takes place a regent is appointed, generally the father, yet all Kingly respect is paid to the young Prince. I could not understand when he was to cease being carried on mens shoulders. To marry into an inferior family is considered as an indelible disgrace. Orepaia, and Whidooah uncles of Otoo, subdued by the power of ignoble beauty, were in this dilemma. The wife of the former had brought him a child, which he dared not acknowledge, passing it for a friends, who had placed it under his charge, and by this evasion, probably saved its life.

[Marginal note concludes:]
"frequently perpetrated upon female, than male children.["]

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Although the power of the Eree da hy, is allowed by the chiefs to be absolute and unlimited, yet in their diffirent districts they have considerable influence with the lower orders. Insurrections are not unfrequent. The bold persevering conduct of Poenow and Tupira is a recent instance, and which, terminated in the royal party not being able to secure the muskets, these Chiefs conceiving them as their property from a prior possession on their being first landed from the Matildas boats.

Besides the Eree da hy there are three classes of people. Erees, or Chiefs, ratteras, or commoners, and Towtows, or lower orders indiscriminately, whether as servants to chiefs or not. In general, attention and respect is observed towards the Chiefs, yet is there a cordial familiarity and friendly intercourse among the whole which argues that they do not think there is that diffirence in mankind most among us are taught to believe. It is common to see groups of every description merrily conversing without the chilling spirit of rank intruding to restrain their social talk. Yet detach the more subordinate from such intercourse, they will feelingly reiterate the name and praises of their Erees with unadulterated heart felt pride and delight. Their Erees, whose ears are ever open to their complaints, and habitations to give them shelter.

In an Island where the women boast so many charms and have such influence, it is extraordinary that there are many occupations assigned them much better adapted to their more robust "Lords and Masters." Towards low water they generally repair with a basket to the reefs in search of diffirent marine productions, none

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of which are rejected by the palate of the Otahytean. I shall hardly be credited in saying that, I have seen a lovely girls of fourteen or fifteen, devouring a sea egg, without the aid of cookery, with the keenest appetite and satisfaction.

The manufacturing of cloth falls also chiefly to the women. Never having been present at the whole process, I can only say that it is made from the bark of trees, chiefly that of the paper mulberry, which is cultivated for the purpose. Pieces are made several yards long without any visible joining, being beaten out with a wooden instrument on a plank, to that extent.

It is of various kinds and although a comfortable protection in dry weather it will not bear much exposure to water. The thickest sort is formed by pasting close together two, three, or more pieces. It is dyed of various colours; red, brown, yellow, and black; but I saw none either blue or green. The yellow dye is from turmeric, which is found in most parts of the Island. With the juice of the Emaddey berry, and leaf of the Ettow, a bright red is produced. Both these plants were taken on board the Providence, and (I believe) reached our Colonies in health. Means probably may be found of rendering the colour indelible – which are unknown at Otahytey. When they wish to affix any pattern on the cloth it is done by the impression of a leaf or any thing else they prefer, after being first wetted with the colour fixed on.

The white cloth acquires its fine colour from a long exposure to the air; some of it was so very soft and flexible that the officers wore

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it for neckcloths, nor without a close examination could it be distinguished from muslin.

As well as cloth, matting is made of a very soft and beautiful texture, which is occasionally worn around the loins, falling before like an apron.

The women are prohibited eating in the presence of the other sex, yet it does not seem to proceed from a motive of delicacy on the part of the men, but in their considering the females as too subordinate to associate in one of their chief gratifications. But, without looking to the motive, I can not but confess that, the seperation of the sexes among these people while satisfying the calls of hunger, met my most cordial approbation. Surely it is an occupation that needs not congregating in any country; or indeed, but what should be got over without publicity of any kind.

hook Fishing lines and nets, some of the latter of a great size, are made with much strength and neatness; a shrub called ([blank]) and the husk of the cocoa nut being chiefly used for the purpose. Their hooks are variously formed of bone, wood, or shells, those used for ground fishing not being barbed, but when a fish is once hooked, to disengage itself is nearly impossible, nor can I help thinking that, hooks of this form might be used with better effect in our Newfoundland fishery than the common european ones. I am aware that they might not catch so quick, but from experience know that vast numbers of cod are lost, as well as much time, from their so easily loosening themselves after reaching thirty, forty, and fifty fathom from the bottom. So partial are these Islanders to their form, that, it was common to see nails manufactured by them into such kind of hooks, on which they placed

[Marginal note:]
Perceval, speaking of the Ceylonese says (1803) While at meals they seldom converse with each other, they seem to look upon the whole business of eating as something rather required by necessity, than very consistent with decency. While drinking, they never turn their faces to each other.

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fishing hook a much greater value than on the barbed ones brought from England. The larger ones with which the shark is taken, is made of the Toa tree, a hard kind of iron wood, some of them being full two feet in length.

A different sort, barbed, are used as an artificial fish for Dolphin and Bonetta, being made of the bright part of the pearl oyster shell, bone, and hogs bristles.

Their warlike weapons are the spear and sling; the former being from ten to twelve feet in length, of Toa wood, and used missively, as well as in the manner of a club. In discharging stones from their slings they are very dexterous. A few short heavy clubs were brought on board that came from a neighbouring Island.

The soft voluptuous disposition of these people but ill qualifies them for hostile operations, nor do they indeed at all boast of being warlike; on the contrary acknowledge their inferiority as Tata Toas (warriors) to the inhabitants of many of the Islands near them; particularly of Bola Bola. Doubtless it is fortunate for them that Bola Bola is so much to Leeward as to preclude its people from invading Otahytey, between which Islands there is no great degree of good will.

The bow and arrow are by both sexes used only as a recreation, large parties frequently meeting to try their skill; Edeea was considered to excel in this amusement. Another pastime is that of wrestling, where much strength and agility are displayed. They also divert themselves in a game with a bread fruit, some what similar to foot ball in England.

The Heeva has been mentioned already

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(latterly indeed called Hoopaowpa) which word seems to apply to all their diversions as well as to dancing. There are many itenerant parties of dancers and musicians of both sexes, who, like our strolling players visit the diffirent districts being ever well received and taken care of by the Chiefs.

The musical instruments are rather destitute of soft sounds, being only a rude sort of drum, a fife which is played through the nose, and a trumpet, used on religious occasions, formed by a bamboo pipe fixed to a large conch shell.

In their dances short sentences are repeated in which the performers all join, and they were not a little pleased at our ignorance of most of them, it being in general the "scandal of the day." You must not from this infer that it is a language difficult to acquire, being perhaps, of all others the most accessible. It is as soft and pleasing as the disposition of the inhabitants, being nearly free from every dissonant sound and composed chiefly of vowels. Some of our letters, C, G, J, L, S, K, X, Z, seem unknown. Great quickness is used in speaking when the parties are much interested, and more gesticulation than in most european countries. The R, is the only letter which at all makes the language guttural, and it often occurs. You shall have a short vocabulary, by which you will be able to judge of the language better than form any thing in my power to say. Where the emphasis is laid I have put a – dash over.

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[In the original the dash (macron) is over both letters: ōō, is the best I can do.]

Arōōroo The hair
Arōōtoo The lips
Āiu The nose
Airerōō The tongue
Ah'Imaēēa The eye lashes
Tu'Imaēēa The eye brows
Aiēē The neck
Aromāȳe Come, or bring
Aīmah whȳtey I don't know
A'vȳ Water
A'oūrey Iron
Aāi The breast
Aīmah No
Bōa A Hog
Boānio A Goat
Bāūbo A Native who came home with us
Bobōōey A Musket
Bobōōey Ētey Ētey A Pistol, or little musket
Bobōōey da hȳ A Cannon, or great musket
Dahȳ Great or large
Ettā The chin
Etōōa The back
Ēvaha The mouth
Ēno Bad
Ētey Ētey Small, little
Ēree A Chief
Ēree da hȳ A Great Chief, or King
Henēēo The teeth
Hōōmey Hōōmey The beard
Hoohā The thigh
Irai The Forehead
Māīu The nails
Momōa The heel
Monōōey Cocoa nut oil

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Manēēo The toes
Mēdey The sea
Mīti Good
Mēēree Mēēree Let me see?
Mow To seize
Mow A Shark
Mow Tāwmowtow A shovel nosed shark
  Tāwmowtow A Bonnet
Māā To eat
Māāde Tāta A Canibal or Man eater
Mārama The Moon
Mahānna The Sun
Mahānna Topa After Sun set
Ōoree A Dog
Ōoree Pevārrey A Cat
Ōoree Tāta A monkey, or dogman
  Tāta A Man
Oorōō Bread fruit
Obōō The Belly
Otōō Name of the King, or Eree da hy
O'Tahȳtey Name of the Island
Orepāīa Uncle to the King
Otōw Grandfather to the King
Obererōah Grandmother to the King
Opārrey The district West of Matavai
Midēēdee A native who came home with us
Midēēdee A child
Paparēēa The cheek
Pēēto The navel
Pēērey Pēērey A virgin
Pēērey Pēērey A plant like the burdock
Pāhee A ship, or vessel
Pāūpa The Hip
Pomāūrey The King regent, father of Otoo

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Rēma The hand
Rattēra A man of middling rank
Tapōnoo The shoulder
Tarrēēa The Ear
Tōōrey The knee
Tabēūai The foot
Tāmou Plaited human hair, worn like a turban
Tōwrow A rope
Tāwmey A Gorget, or war mat for the breast
Tōwtow A servant, or man of low degree
Tōwrowmey Chaffing, and pressing the limbs
Tēpey A Knife
Tai Aīva Name of Whidooahs wife
Whidōōah Uncle of Otoo
Waurīddey Angry
Whyherēddy Pomaureys younger wife
Wahēyney A woman
Whītey Yes, or I know
Yāvy The Leg
Yāva An intoxicating liquor
†Yōūra na Teotōōa God bless you
Matōw Fear or afraid
Tōpa te Mēdey To jump into the sea
Marīddey Cold

Doubtless you will find this vocabulary sufficiently extensive, you shall therefore only have in addition, some of our names as they struck my ear when pronounced by the natives, with two or three songs

Bligh Brihe
Bond Boney
Guthrie Tooteray
Pearce Pearthey

[Marginal note:]
†This expression is used by the Natives to each other when any one sneezes, exactly as we say "God bless you" in England.

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Harwood Harwootey
Providence Proverenthy
Vancouver Fannytopa
Christian Titreano
Edwards Etwartey
Tobin Topeney

There were some in the ship whose names, the organs of speech of these people could not approach so as to bear any similitude. Gillespie, one of the petty officers, in particular. To Holwell they attached the term "All Well," (losing the L) the words passed by our centinels after dark.

The following were among other lines generally repeated at our afternoon Heeva. The two first are of thirteen syllables, the emphasis and not without some degree of symphony, being on the eighth in each line
"Miti Miti Miti, Miti te peeir oboo."
2d.
"Miti Miti Miti, Miti te mato peya."

Another of nineteen syllables.
"Teta meitey, teta mea; Teta meitey, towro Owawrro"
The former are (I was told) in praise of the large water fall on Matavai river, and also of the officers cabins; where indeed, these cheerful damsels were sometimes known to rest their wearied limbs after the exertions of the Heeva. The Otahyteans are not destitute of the best of attributes gratitude; no wonder then that they thus sung the praises of what administered to their comforts.

The priests have not yet been noticed; They did not appear to be numerous.

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Hammenaminhay, an old Chief of Orieteeah the Tayo of Pearce, we always understood to be at the "head of the church," but however orthodox in his devotions, few of the laity were so licentious and depraved in their habits. It is impossible for me to speak with any degree of certainty as to their religion. Idolatry is so far followed that they worship through the medium of images, scarcely a house being without them, and when taking a journey, being sufficiently portable, they are never left behind. They recount various deities; of the Sea, the woods, and several others, all of which are appealed to on diffirent occasions. It would not seem that, they congregate at stated periods to offer their devotions. I have heard old Hamminaminhay after dining with us, no other native being in company, repeat a long prayer with great quickness for the space of half an hour. Death certainly cannot be considered by them as an immediate or "eternal sleep," as, for a considerable time, until the flesh decays and the bones are finally placed in the Morais, the dead are supplied with viands and articles of dress.

It was as ridiculous as fruitless, in my humble opinion, attempting to make them acquainted with our religious tenets. Yet has such a plan been frequently talked of, and indeed, it was in contemplation to send out Missionaries in the Providence to convert these amiable people. Several have since (I hear) actually reached Otahytey without being well received, the natives begging them to depart and promulgate their doctrines elsewhere.

I am neither brave, or fashionable

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enough to be a sceptic—few indeed are the former, whatever they may profess. Yet, believing as I do, I cannot reconcile to myself, either the wisdom or goodness of extending Christianity to distant worlds full as virtuous as ourselves. Doubtless in this feeling I may be wrong; still I cannot put it away.

Besides, how is it to be effected? From what has fallen within the scope of my observation on this side of the Atlantic, where the numbers of missionaries are rapidly encreasing, their doctrine seems wholly to be terror. Mercy is almost wrested from the Almighty, and not his attribute, while the chief theme is thundering damnation into the ears of their eagerly listening flock. That there may be many truly pious and worthy characters among the sect of methodists, (than whom no other have embarked on this converting South Sea voyage,) I am willing to believe, but much fear it will be found that there are too many worldly and mercenary fanatics. What the exact creed of the Otahytean is, it is not in my power to explain, yet is it charitable to believe it a good one—if faith and good works travel in amity with each other; In the latter, these Islanders are "eminent beyond compare." They encourage a lesson of morality and good will among one another that puts civilized religion to the blush.

Let us then—still I may be in error—in the name of providence have done with missions of the kind to be a retrospect of their sanguinary exterminating consequences in many a large portion of the world, and humanity will tremble.

The Otahytean needs no conversion, he divides✱ what he has with the stranger, as with his neighbour. He administers to, he anticipates their wants. Can he be taught more, and still retain these amiable and generous qualities?

[Inserted unnumbered page:] ✱"Where all partake the earth without dispute, And bread itself is gathered as a fruit; Where none contest the fields, the woods, the streams: The goldless age, where gold disturbs no dreams, Inhabits or inhabited the shore, Till Europe taught them better than before, Bestowed her customs, and amended theirs, But left her vices also their heirs. Away with this! behold them as they were, Do good with Nature, or with Nature err.["] From Lord Byrons "Island" 1823

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Doubtless some of their customs ought to be abolished, and let us hope that, at no very distant period they will whether by the aid of Missionaries or not. I will drop the subject, with a belief that you will acquit me of any intention of being loose or licentious in the preceding observations, God knows, it is the farthest from my heart. To often have I "traced a Providence at sea, and saw his wonders on the mighty deep" that it is impossible for me to doubt.

"An Athiest Sailor were a monstrous thing,
More wonderful than all old Ocean breeds."

I am only hazarding an opinion—crude enough no doubt—on the plan of converting my old friends at Otahytey. Have we not a great deal to do "at home"?

Of their penal laws I am hardly able to speak. What in many countries would be deemed crimes, here meet no penalty. I rather believe that the life of an individual cannot be affected, let the guilt be what it may. In the sudden impulse of passion and resentment, I have seen a chief inflict a blow on an inferior without resistance, but was never witness to any thing like systematic corporal punishment. It has already been observed that the most worthless in society are selected for oblations to the deity on diffirent occasions, yet even here, the devoted object is kept ignorant of the blow that awaits him. Although in the preceding pages, I am disposed to believe, and this opinion is confirmed by the report of the chiefs, that it seldom occurs among themselves. We cannot be much surprised that the novelty of european articles should tempt them to err. The

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rigid moralist will not find it difficult to discover that in our visits to these unoffending people, with the advantages of education and refinement—if such they be—and the taught conviction of right and wrong; we ourselves have been sometimes caught tripping. The ballance, I rather fear is against us.

Their diseases are not numerous, and they are happily ignorant of those savaging ones, the small pox and measles. Consumptions are not uncommon, for which, like ourselves, they seem aware that there is no remedy. But what they suffer most from, are diseases of a scrofulous nature. Many instances fell under my observation where it had made dreadful inroads on the human frame, the poor sufferers only looking to death for a termination of their misery. The[y] attribute most of their complaints to the visits of Europeans, and that some of them were imported by us, perhaps it would be difficult to disprove.

The venereal disease, that cussed scourge on mankind, has here spread its baneful influence to a melancholy degree, by whatever channel it might have been introduced. On this question much sedulous disquisition has been exercised, yet seemingly with naught conclusive. Nearly two Centuries have elapsed since the discovery of the Island by Quiros, but the natives date the origin of this cruel disorder at a more recent period, the visits of Captain Wallis and Monsieur Bouganville; The former in 1767, the latter in the following year.

Save, to the idly curious, it is of little import which of the two left this sad token among them, instead of disputing how the disease reached the Island, humanity cries aloud that, to heal their sufferings ought to be the consideration. We owe them every

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friendly and humane exertion, nor can it be doubted but that, professional men might be found whose hearts would dilate in embarking on so laudable a purpose. This indeed were a mission the God of all, the protector of the Christian, as well as of the dark untutored savage would approve. Here, although not ignorant of simples that yield relief in their milder complaints, Here, their wretched obscurity calls feelingly for succour.

Our worthy messmate Ned Harwood, with his ceaseless philanthropy, acted the part of the "good Samaritan" to these poor Islanders. But his healing relief, was of short continuance.

A few instances of men suffering from insanity (Nenevah) were observed, but in no case, so as to render coercion necessary.

I was led to enquire whether suicide was ever known among them, and was informed it never happened but from insanity, the instances being very rare. The gloomy, ceaseless, overwhelming discontent and despair, so often the inmates of more reflecting and civilized breasts, and which covets disolution for relief, is here never seen. Of the motives indeed, to this desperate act among Europeans, they are happily strangers. The European perhaps has not more sensibility than the native of Otahytey, but there are reflections inseperable from the indulgence of such sensibility, the latter has never been taught to feel. If we could examine into the history of such among ourselves who have embraced self murder as a termination to their woes, it would be found too often, to have proceeded from the corroding conviction of guilt—doubtless more frequently than from any other impulse.

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Many indeed, carry their history with them unknown but to a superior power, from a silent feeling to others left here, to buffet it a little longer. The Otahytean is a child of nature, nor plagued nor perplexed with too much thought. Her impulses he unreasonably follows feeling—not reasoning about it—that, she is the true guide, and that passions and affections were given him as a road to happiness, nor to be chilled by the sapient decrees of profound legislators, who aim—yet impotently—by human institution to subdue their all powerful voice.

The few preceding remarks, bear not at all upon the turpitude of self murder. they are only hazarded as an opinion, why it is more frequent among ourselves than with these people, thereby deducing that, their system of life is wiser than our own—without it argues wisdom to seek another world when this becomes burthensome—and which, "can not be tried a second time"—so full of doubt and obscurity.

It would not appear that they are remarkable for longevity. One of the eldest of our visitors was Otow grandfather of Otoo, the Eree da hy, yet he did not seem above seventy; but as their method of keeping time, which is by moons, made any enquiries, except on recent circumstances, rather perplexing, I only speak of the age of Otow from conjecture.

Our people were allowed to go on shore in rotation, but there was no instance of desertion; yet perhaps this was more owing to a conviction that the Chiefs would deliver them up, than from want of inclination. It has been already observed that, some of the Matildas crew remained on the Island

[Marginal note:]
Yet Forster says, (in 1773) "E Happai (which was Otows name at that period) was a tall thin man with a grey beard and hair, seemed to be of a great age but not entirely worn out. Otoo Son of E Happai seemed about four or five and twenty"

[Inserted unnumbered page:]
Note. Yet, when the Duff touched at Huhahayney in 1797, a man by the name of Connor, one of the Matildas crew, declined embarking on board her. Connor had been among the Society Isles five years, but he supposed it had been eight. He could neither read or write, and had nearly forgotten his native language. He first expressed a desire to be taken on board but his affection for a child borne him by a woman of the Island, superseded the desire, and he remained in this distant quarter of the globe. (GT 1802)

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by choice, and here I cannot help noticing, on the authority of Captain Bligh that Captain Clerke of the Discovery when last at Otahytey in 17  with Captain Cook, had formed the intention of remaining there, and that on the day of their departure he went on board the Resolution to intimate such a wish to his commanding officer, who having been apprised of the circumstance avoided a meeting, instantly proceeding with the two vessels to sea. Captain Clerke had been an invalid from the beginning of this arduous voyage, and had encouraged a flattering hope that the genial climate of the Island would have again restored him to health. You are aware that he died on the coast of Kamtchatka about two years afterwards not having reached the meridian of life.

Such Europeans as have voluntarily been left on any of the South Sea Islands, however partial to the manners of the inhabitants, have generally availed themselves of opportunities to return. The natives, I have no doubt, would act the same after remaining any considerable time in Europe, so powerfully do our affections cling to the soil where we first drew breath. Much is to be lamented that of the South sea islanders who visited europe and other countries, only one returned. The death of poor Mideedee who came home in the Providence, has been mentioned. Baubo, who we left at Jamaica not long after met the same fate. Tobaiah and his boy Tayota fell sacrifices to the pestilential climate of Batavia in the Endeavour. Aotourow who embarked with M. Bouganville in 17 , after passing some time in France, sailed on his return, but only reached the Isle of France or Bourbon, where he died. Oedidee, it is true,

[Marginal note:]
The death of three Otahyteans is noted in the Gent. Mag (1803) "Mydowe, about seventeen or eighteen at the Moravian School near Leeds, Oly, about nineteen or twenty, at the same place, and Mideedee another youth, who died some time before (but in what part of England is not mentioned) of a spitting of blood. These three victims to a less genial climate than their own left Otahytey about the year 1799 in a Southern Whaler and her prize." In reading the

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from visiting the Friendly Isles, New Zealand, and other places returned safe after being absent about a twelvemonth, to Orieteeah Omai it would appear, is the only one who after passing some time in Europe returned to his own country.

However confident in our kindness, and unsuspicious of neglect having been exercised towards such of their countrymen as at diffierent periods embarked with us, it cannot but appear extraordinary to the natives that death or other circumstance should so continually have prevented their coming back. Mideedee and Baubo were in the highest state of health when they took the last farewell of their native friends and relations.

Many accounts were current respecting Omai, but they all accorded in his having died a natural death at Orieteeah his native Isle. M  , a chief of that island, stated that the fire arms of Omai, of which he had a couple, gave him much importance and that on the locks getting out of order, by continual use it was his custom to present the musket, while a Towtow, with a lighted stick, set fire to the priming. This poor fellow while in England certainly passed the time much to his gratification, but by no means so as to acquire any information likely to be of benefit to his country. Had Mideedee lived, there is no doubt but Captain Bligh would have had him instructed in some useful kind of handicraft; if indolence, which is inseperable from these people, had not proved an obstacle.

Among the several thousand who visited the shipping and the Post, I observed only one person labouring under natural deformity, from which it is fair to infer that such cases are rare on the Island.

[Marginal note continues:]
account of these poor fellows, it was not without reflecting on the namesake of one of them, our old Shipmate Mideedee, who removed from all but a few English friends, paid the same debt but a few years before. Out Mideedee had been absent from Otahytey about seven years when the late one left the Island. It would be satisfactory to

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[Marginal note continues:]
know whether an account of our friends death had reached the Island at this time. If it had, his namesake had certainly a claim to resolution and enterprise in quitting his native Isle on a voyage at least of obscurity. Mideedee signifys a Chile. Much is to be wished that Europeans would leave these Mideedees to their own teeming soil and cheefrul habits. I may be wrong, but the more I see and hear, the more I reflect, the strong an opinion is fixed in my mind, that the aim of civilized nations to ameliorate the condition of those in what is called a savage state, is but in general, a fruitless one. Twelve years are not passed since I was among the Otahyteans, but I fear that were I now to visit them I should not find them in an improved state. The public prints notice that great numbers of our countrymen from New South Wales have by various means found their way to Otahytey, that they have built several vessels and are employed on many more of considerable burthen. From the contiguity of Otahytey to this Land of Convicts, its fine climate, productive soil, and pleasurable habits, we cannot but suppose that emigration from Port Jackson will encrease, nor is it a very remote calculation to imagine that this very fine Island Main,as yesterday become a European settlement, and the hand of power by degrees reduce the right owners to an abject state of servitude. We are already told of the Chiefs having bestowed the productive district of Matavai to the Missionaries, a Class of men who purposely embarked on what is generally considered a humane errand; and who cannot be supposed to cherish worldly considerations while converting the heathen. What may we not then expect from those of more dissolute and licentious manners? The Island is capable of producing every thing that is cultured in our West India Colonies. It has good harbours, fine rivers, abundance of wood, and holds out but too great a temptation to the insatiable speculator on gain. (GT 1804)

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The mean of 9 sets of observations of the ☉ & ☽ (GT) gave the Longitude of Matavai Bay 210°..35′.. 5″ East or 149°..24′..55″ West.
   Viz

May 15th 1st set 210..30..15 May 29th 2d 210..31..45 June 14th 3d 209..57..30 June 15th 4th 210..26..45 June 15th 5th 210..28..30 June 16th 6th 210..41..15 June 26th 7th 210..53..45 June 27th 8th 210..20 June 29th 9th 211..17 9/1895..15..45 Mean Longd. Matavai Bay – 210..35..05 Et. Capt. Cook in 1769, on observing the Transit of Venus 210..27..30 Capt. Bligh in the Bounty 1789 the result of 50 sets of observations 210..33..57

The 9 sets above, vary in a considerable degree; the 3d and the last so much as 79 miles which strongly points out the necessity of taking a number of observations on such occasions

The Variation of the compass on board in Matavai Bay per Mean of 30 sets of Azimuths with 3 diffirent Compasses, chiefly cloudy Capt. Bligh 1792 4°..58′ Ely.

Do by 9 sets on Point Venus 5..47 Ely.
   /2/10..45
Mean Variation 5..22..30 Ely.

[Marginal note:]
The Tine in Matavai Bay was very inconsiderable, not (I think) rising above a foot, and [?] somewhat remarkable, it was high water about the middle of the day. It is in my recollection that the Captain used to send a [The rest is obscured in the fold of the book.]

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