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Tobin's Providence Narrative Chapter 6

Otahytey

Chapter 6th

173 1792 May

Visit the Morai at Oparrey – Curiosities – Corpse of Mow-oroah – Houses, diffirent ones – Scissars – Carved figures, Etee – Morai – Transparency of the Sea – Visit Whapiano, a war canoe – Tai Aiva's breakfast – Tupira dines with us at Whydooah's – Edeea neglected by her husband Pomaurey – Pomaurey much intoxicated – Whyhereddy enjoying the rain – Grievous ceremony – Mideedee – Our Kings Birthday – Paper Balloons – Excursion to Tetaha – Wild ducks perch on trees – Birds – Pomaurey not a warrior – Bread fruit scarce – Cocoa nuts – Second excursion to Tetaha – Scurf on the skin from drinking Yava – Island Tetheroa – Began watering – Articles from the Wreck of the Matilda – Plants embarked – Sorrow of the Natives – Party embark from the Post – Ship unmoored – Chiefs sleep on board – Parting – Leave the Island – &c &c

Thetis Coast of America March 1797

21st. Harwood was kind enough this day to accompany me on a visit to the Morai at Oparrey. Our pockets were filled with diffirent articles to exchange for any thing curious which might be met with. It was soon circulated through the plain that two Erees from the ship were in search of curiosities. The natives ever laughed at the avidity with which such collections were made and to shew their contempt some brought a stone, another a feather, and so on, being highly delighted with the tricks they were playing on us. One fellow really deserved much credit as a

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sharper. I had bargained for four of the beautiful little blue paroquets called Veneys, with a promise to call for them on returning. In about an hour after, he came lamenting that two had escaped from the cage. As I did not doubt his veracity he received the whole price, which was no sooner done that a boy brought two more and sold them; but we soon discovered by the looks of those around that the whole was a scheme to get double pay for the birds.

Understanding it was in the neighbourhood, we visited the exposed Corpse of the late Chief Mow-oroah. We were informed that he had been dead about four moons, and that every evening the body was placed under a shed. The Corpse was in a sitting posture on a stage about four feet high, but diffirent from the common Toopapows. Except a bandage of white cloth over the middle and another round the temples, the body was in a naked state. It was more tatowed than any I had seen on the Island; the legs and thighs being marked so as to leave no remains of the natural colour of the skin. The arms were in circular ridges from the shoulder to the wrist, and under the left breast was the broad mark of the Eareoye Society. The stage was decorated with a quantity of striped red and white cloth, a rail at the back of which supporting the body from falling, being hung with the same. The whole of this, and the shed was enclosed in a bamboo fence of about eighteen feet by six, partly open at one side for the attendants on the corpse to enter by. It was the only body I saw exposed in this manner. Several inferior Toopapows were in the neighbourhood, nor would it seem that any particular spots are sppropriated for them, which is the more remarkable in so

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cleanly a people, as the stench from them is very offensive; yet the inhabited houses were quite continuous to many, without any annoyance being felt or apprehension of disorders being generated by the putridity of the air around. It is customary when a corpse is exposed this way, to first remove the intestines. Mow-oroah was related to the royal family, His widow, Mereea was living. Not far from this spot, the pillars of a large house were standing, the roof having been removed. Much labour must have been bestowed in constructing these supporters, and it was with pleasure we observed that, the proprietor, to prevent their decay, had covered them carefully with coars matting.

The houses are of various kinds, some being enclosed from the eaves all round with a railing of bamboo, having a door on one side. Others are left entirely open, supported by three rows of pillars like the long one before mentioned at [blank]. The leaf of the Wharra tree, a species of Palmetto, is generally used as a thatch, being very durable. None of them are floored but the Chiefs houses have generally a carpet of cut grass, laid regularly, which, as it decays, is supplied by fresh. The furniture consists of a sleeping mat, a small wooden pillow for the head, and sometimes a larger of the same form to sit on.

These are made in a neat manner, chiefly from a hard wood of a mahogany colour, and, previously to the introduction of european tools, must have been a work of much time and labour, as the legs are carved from the solid block.

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Gourds are in use to contain water, and the cocoa nut shell to drink it from. Besides a few other cooking utensils, little else is to be seen in an Otahytean mansion. All these are kept remarkably neat and clean; indeed, about Matavai and Oparrey, there were few who had not european boxes or chests to keep their valuables in. Any thing foreign bears some estimation; you have been told of a volume of the statutes at large being in old Hamminaminhays (the high priest) possession, and this I believe nothing could induce him to part with; he even kept the book concealed, dreading it might be taken from him.

Scizzars were much prised, with which the natives were constantly amusing themselves cutting their hair in various forms. Some of the women were not ignorant of the use of the needle, and linen was so plentiful among them that there was a great demand for soap. It was said that one of our non commissioned officers, a pleasant good tempered fellow, had been so bountiful to his female friends that his ward robe from three dozen shirts, was, on the departure of the ship, reduced to three single ones. The mention of soap, calls to my recollection that, we all had Otahytean washerwomen, whose bills were paid in beads, spike nails, and other commodities.

As well as the houses already mentioned, there are small portable ones scarcely able to contain two persons, for embarking on the double canoes, and young Otoo had a small one erected on pillars in the water some distance from the beach in Oparrey harbour.

In our walk we saw several of the carved figures called Etee. The most remarkable one was about twenty feet in height, consisting of sixteen

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figures, the base being of the female sex, about three, the others decreasing gradually according to the size of the tree. They are carved without the tree being cut down, and it must be a tedious undertaking. The Etee was observed in various parts of the Island, distant from as well as contiguous to Morais and Tupapows; the distortion of the mouth as when dancing the Heeva seemed to be imitated, and in some of the male figures the distinguishing mark of the sex was mot preposterously evident, affording no small degree of giggling to some Otahytean damsels, who retreated not from their God of Gardens.

As we approached the Morai, the eastern breeze wafted to us no very odorous perfume from numbers of hogs that had been sacrificed as an oblation to the deity. These were on a stage about forty feet in length, supported by three rows of pillars eight feet high; long rushes, nearly reaching the ground from each side of it. Close to the stage were two tables, on one of which was a single hog. Those on the stage amounted to about fifteen. The Morai was a pavement about a foot high, sixty four long, and forty two broad; at one end indeed, it was raised four or five feet, like two steps, which part was decorated with carved wooden figures, some of them representing Heeva dancers, birds, and lizards. A few upright stones were fixed in diffirent parts of the pavement, three or four feet high, and bread fruit and Cocoa nut trees were growing among them. A human skull, and one of a hog were hanging to some carved figures near the Morai, and another skull was brought to us which our guides said was kept with great care at this place, it being that of Thompson, one of the mutineers

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in the Bounty.

A case for the Eotooa nearly similar to the one seen in Otoos canoe at Matavai was near, supported on a platform, about six feet high, by nine pillars. Close to it, was an uninhabited house, but for what purpose we did not learn.

As well as the pavement already mentioned, there was on the eastern point of Oparrey harbour, not an hundred yards distant, a large pile of stones in the form of the base of a pyramid, regularly placed in four stories. Many carved figures in wood, similar to those on the pavement, were here placed upright, and the Toa was proving luxuriantly among the coral rocks, though its roots were washed by the ocean. The windward side of this projecting coral point was sheltered by a wall, inside of which were several human skeletons laying in diffirent directions. But I am wearying you with descriptions, perhpas more tedious than clear, and will therefore refer you to the attempts of my pencil.

In our way home, a quarrel having taken place at Matavai, we found two of the natives fighting. The weaker man had a fast gripe of the others hair, nor could he be disengaged the whole conflict. Kicking and every advantage was taken, and one gave the other such proofs of the sharpness and strength of his teeth that the blood gushed out amain. It did not continue long, but the wounded man brought a handful of hair from the head of his antagonist ere he "gave in." The women of the combatants were weeping and lamenting bitterly in loud shrieks the whole time

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22d. With the exception of Otoo, Orepaia, and Hamminaminhay the party returned from Paparra, not having succeeded in their stratagem of getting the arms.

The watering party was not in the least molested to day. The fellow so recently punished, was about us, exhibiting even with humour, the marks of its effects to his companions.

23d. Among our visitors was old Mereea widow of the exposed dead chief at Oparrey (Mow-Oroah) and women in abundance. My cabin was soon crowded, where beads was distributed to many of them. Edeea was highly gratified on my presenting her some English cloth, promising largely in return.

Pomaurey, with other chiefs, having in the evening to pass One Tree Hill and it being extremely dark, had sent their Towtows to prepare fires at diffirent parts of the road; these had communicated with a quantity of high reeds, causing a brilliant illumination over the whole bay. It was the only instance during our stay of the Chiefs being assisted this way in their journeys; indeed, travelling by night rarely happens, nor is any Otahytean often seem out of his house after the day has closed.

24th. We were again alarmed at night by a thief near the ship, yet notwithstanding the shore party were posted along the beach, and the boats in pursuit, his activity in the water was so great he effected his escape. But they are so early habituated to this element, and remain so long under its surface that our pursuits on such occasions were always tedious, and frequently in vain. When nearly within grasp they dive, nor is it possible to tell in what direction they will rise. Most likely you have been shooting, or rather shooting at, loons and divers, on some of the

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"American waters," if so, yo9u may form a tolerable idea of an Otahytean in the Sea.

From the gangway of the Providence, I have frequently seen children eight or nine years of age leap into the sea for beads fifteen or twenty feet below the surface, scarcely ever failing to rise with the reward of their exertions. Their vision under water must be astonishingly clear, as when the smallest beads have been thrown into it, several yards assunder, after securing some, they have returned with the same success to others in a diffirent direction. Doubtless the Sea among these Islands (which indeed is the case in most tropical Latitudes) being so very translucid, greatly aids the distinguishing of objects in it.

While speaking of the agility of these people in the water it is impossible to help reflecting how little the qualification of even swimming, is cultivated in our own country. To sailors and soldiers it is particularly useful and should be encouraged by every means. Yet even among the former, who may be said to live on the deep, hjow small the proportion of those who can swim.

26th. In the morning Guthrie and myself left the Post for Whapiano to examine a War canoe, of which, great praise had been given by Pomaurey. As usual in all our walks, several natives joined us, and it was with difficulty we prevented the party being too crowded.

A spot was pointed out to us where one of the recent battles had been fought, and many of the trees exhibited deep marks from the stones of slings. These weapons in the hands of a resolute people would occasion sad destruction. The Otahyteans use the, with great skill, but their timidity,

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which seems excessive, prevents any warfare being carried on with energy.

In our way we called on Whidooah, who instantly ordered a hog to be prepared for the oven. Tai Aiva his wife was breakfasting on fish barely warmed, according to the custom of the Island, alone in a small shed about fifty yards from the house.

Whidooah, next brother to Orepaia appeared about seven and twenty. His countenance was handsome, and figure elegant, both of which had been much injured by an unrestrained use of Yava. As a warrior he was esteemed the best in the Island, and had killed Maheeny, a chief of Moreea. It is true, the manner of his death gave nothing heroic to the conqueror as he was seized by several Towtows while Whidooah beat out his brains with a stone. Much confidence however seemed to be placed in this prince by the state, but he appeared a complete voluptuary and from the account given us, his indulgences were so various, it was difficult to believe them true at Otahytey.

He as among the few who entertained jealousy of his wifes conduct. Tai Aiva was considered as the Belle of the Island, as well by the English, as her own countrymen, and the temptations to seduce her from the "right path" were various, and often repeated—but in vain. Ruffled, or unruffled, she was still the same cold, repellent fair one. Had Tai Aiva been more yielding, The ward robe of many an English Chief, would have been expended, and this kindly Isle far the richer in various sorts of foreign drapery. Little credit was given her by her own sex,

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this sturdy denial being alone attributed to the dread she entertained of offending her Lord, to whom she was very inferior in blood. In this surely there was some merit due to her. Let us at the same timne soften the quilt of others, whose husbands and relatives rather promoted than suppressed a more complying conduct.

The Whapiano was crossed several times, as usual on mens shoulders before we reached the shed under which the canoe was building. Its dimensions were as follows Vizt.
Extreme length – 70 feet
Extreme breadth at about one third from the stern – 3¾
Height at the Stern – 17
Height at the Head – 11¾
Like the common Canoe it was formed of a number of pieces sewed together, the seams being payed over with a black composition, not very unlike pitch. On the head, and stern, was the rude figure of a man. It had seven knees, or timbers of a single piece of wood.
About the sides, head, and stern, were carved figures of turtle and lizards, and on the fore part was placed an Eparrey no Eotooa, the wooden case which has been before mentioned to shelter the deity in. It also serves him as a sleeping place.

I never saw a Canoe decorated for any religious occasion, without an Eparrey no Eotooa being affixed to it.

In a shed near at hand was a piece of carved work twenty feet in length, to be erected as an ornament on the stern, and a conical helmet formed of bamboo, decorated with cocks feathers to be occasionally worn by the priest. The Canoe was a full quarter of a mile from the Whapiano, yet, when finished, was

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to be carried to it by the means of poles on mens shoulders. We were informed that it was small when compared to some in the Society Islands. Mahee told us that at Orieteeah he had one that employed several men to steer it. This one on the stocks, and another smaller at Oparrey, were all we heard of in the neighbourhood of the ship. How diffirent the state of the Otahytean Navy, when Captain Cook describes the armament at Oparrey in 17  

Tupira, who was at his strong hold some distance up the river, learning we were in the neighbourhood, soon paid us a visit, and what seemed rather inexplicable, accompanied us to the house of his enemy Whidooah. The two Chiefs hardly noticed each other, but this coolness did not prevent Tupira assisting us to demolish the hog of his antagonist with a good appetite, while he informed us that the greater part of the furniture we were using, had been taken from him in the late attack. We could only conjecture that our presence was a protection to Tupira. Yet, could Whidooah have made him prisoner on his return from accompanying us part of the way to Matavai, had such been the object.

The hog was served up whole with baked breadfruit and plantains. Milk from the Cocoa nut was our beverage, and salt water the sauce to our meat. From having frequently used it as a substitute for salt, so easily are our prejudices surmounted, I found it equally palatable.

Pahraihea, a chief of Whapiano behaved with much kindness, insisting we should not return to the ship without a live hog, and our friend Tupira loaded our attendants with a variety of fruits.

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27th. Orepaia returned this day from his unsuccessful expedition to Paparra.

Pomaurey and his wives dined on board, during which a native arrived from an eastern district with an invitation from its Chief to Captain Bligh. As a token of friendship he brought the branch of a particular tree, to the end of which the Captain fastened a red feather as an acknowledgement.

Edeeas feelings were put to the test at dinner by our Commander expressing his surprise that she thought so little of the illness of one of her children left at Paparra. She, for a few minutes wept bitterly, exhibiting every symptom of unfeigned grief, when drying her eyes, laughter soon succeeded, and the child no moe intruded on her thoughtless disposition. It was the same with Whyhereddy a few days before on being offended with a favorite Towtow. Her tears flowed copiously, when, in almost the same moment, she was romping about the cabin like a hoyden. The besotted partiality of Pomaurey to this silly woman was as extraordinary as his total neglect of poor Edeea. To variety, and her being several years younger it could alone be attributed, for in manners and sisposition she was every way inferior. What should we think in England—indiffirent as our manners seem to be approaching—of two sisters living under the same roof with a man in the most cordial harmony, the elder one utterly repudiated for the scarcely ripened charms of the younger? Nay, this very neglected sister was fully acquainted how false the favorite was to their Lords bed. Yet with the most yielding unconcern concealed it from him. This is being even more cool than

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what we hear of our philosophic enemies composing the "great nation," whose morals, God avert from our own little Island—We want them not.

In the afternoon the King regent had taken such an immoderate does of Yava, in addition to the Captains wine, as to become so unmanageable it required several men to confine him. He exhibited every symptom of a violent epileptic fit.

It rained exceedingly part of the day, but on clearing up, a bright gleam of sun produced on of the most beautiful landscapes conceivable, every hill and tree being enlivened by the showers.

The Otahyteean seldom loses an opportunity of bathing in fresh water. Whyhereddy in the middle of the rain surprised our frail nerves by suddenly emerging from the cabin in a state of nudity. She was a wikced jade, and we should all have been much more pleased, had it been Tai Aiva or Warrianow.

After getting thoroughly soaked, and playing numberless tricks and sportive gambols to a congregation that,—of course—encreased on such an occasion; she as suddenly disappeared to enrobe herself in the cabin; but, not without leaving us in admiration and wonder, at the injenuity with which she disposed of her pliant and beautifully moulded limbs; yet seemingly accidental and unstudied while, they scarcely presented a shade of what she aimed at concealing.

Edeea took leave of us for a few days, having heard of the death of her child in its passage from Paparra to Oparrey.

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She seemed scarcely affected on the occasion, yet some of the officers saw her afterwards at Oparrey in all the "mockery of wor." She was preparing fo the grievous ceremony when the party met her. In exhibiting a sharks tooth wrapped round with cloth, the sharp point being bare, ti was with a smile on her countenance. The time at length arriving for lamentation, she began and continued wounding her head the blood flowing about her in streams. The period of sorrow over, she resumed her wonted cheerfulness.

29th. A reply of poor Mideedee to Captain Bligh at dinner gained him much credit. The Captain was gently reproving him for something that had been neglected. He urged forgetfulness as an excuse. And how came that Mideedee? (Ayma whitey (I do not know) said he to our Commander, nor how you came to forget the sky rockets you promised us. Mideedee's retort was so just that, Captain Bligh assured him he should have the fire works.

June 4th. In honour of our Royal Masters birth day, the two vessels were dressed with flags, and we all appeared more than usually grand in our apparel. Salutes were fired, as well as at the Post, a great concourse of natives attending the cannonade, with which they were highly gratified. This loyalty when so remote from our native Isle gained us the unqualified approbation of these good people, nor without their participating in it most cordially as our Allies.

With several Chiefs I took the birth day dinner at our post with my late valuable friend.

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The whole royal family, except the gay, the jovial Whidooah, were the Captains guests on board. Whidooah soon became warm and vociferous in praise of the Eree dahy no pretaney, Keen Yore (King George) and our country, but yielding at length to the powerful influence of our Teneriffe wine he sunk into the arms of sleep and ebriety.

The day passed cheerfully, nor in drawing a comparison between civilized Europe and this happy Isle, did the scale incline much in favour of the former.

In the evening a variety of fireworks were exhibited for the gratification of the natives, as well as two paper balloons which had been prepared for the occasion. One of them succeeded beyond my expectations, taking a direction towards Moreea, nor did we lose sight of it for nearly a quarter of an hour. These balloons were (I believe) the first ever displayed at the Island, and I cannot but confess that, I felt some degree of mortification at the natives not expressing stronger marks of surprise and satisfaction; with the rockets they were infinitely more pleased; perhaps, having no Stationers Shop on the Island, I felt sore at not being able to get a fresh supply of silver paper. Of rockets, there were more in store.

6th. Captain Bligh early in the morning sent me to Tetaha, a district seven or eight miles westward of the ship to procure provisions, the supply, particularly of bread fruit, having decreased considerably. I first landed at Point Venus before day break, for Pomaurey

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who was to accompany me and use his influence in the district. His Majesty did not think proper to embark without first having his breakfast, which consisted of about three pounds of baked fish, nor was it without much difficulty that I perswaded him to quit the false Whyhereddy. Poor neglected Edeea was reposing on a couch hard by.

He was very facetious the whole way down, undertaking to pilot the boat between the coral reefs into Tetaha and imitating our manner of conning. On first landing, he ordered the slaughter of a hog for dinner, and then proceeded in search of plantains, without much ceremony to the proprietors of such as fell in our way. Indeed had not this prompt measure been taken, we should have returned to the ship empty, not a single bunch being voluntarily brought to him. Walking about two miles westward, the boat followed the windings of the coast as near as a coral bank would admit. Here the country was even more populous than at Matavai or Oparrey. The plain was not so broad, but the small rising hills near the coast were abundantly clothed with bread fruit, Avee, Eratta (a large kind of chesnut) and various other trees, the houses being distributed among them in a picturesque manner. A Toopapow was here pointed out to us, where the corpse of one of the mutineers children had lain, previously to its being buried.

Monah, an old chief who frequently visited the Providence, resided in this district, and had prepared refreshments of various fruits for us. At the extent of our walk Pomaurey made a seizure of more plantains; after which, we were carried aboce a quarter of a mile on mens shoulders, over the

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coral bank to the boat, and embarked for our first landing place, where we found the hog smoking from the oven, nor was it long, with the assistance of the boats crew and good appetites, ere most of it was demolished.

In general the chiefs did not partake of meals with their guests. So it was this day with Pomaurey, who, retiring about an hundred paces to the shade of a bread fruit tree, took his meal alone, first bathing in an adjoining stream, a practice seldom omitted, and which is truly indicative of the cleanliness of these people. His dinner was of fish, which, in our way from Matavai he had taken out of a canoe, the fisherman not at all appearing dissatisfied with the regal theft.

About three miles westward of where our dinner was taken, a small Island nearly joins the main land, but there appeared to be sufficient water for canoes to pass. Many flocks of wild ducks were here seen. It may be remarked that, the wild duck of Otahytey although web footed, commonly perches on trees.

A bird called Otatarrey was here shot, being about the size of a sky lark, and very similar in plumage. In the morning and evening, particularly after rain, it has a note nearly approaching to that of the thrush. In some ponds up the stream a small kind of Moor hen was observed Omawmow

The birds of this Island are not of great variety, and it is a curious fact that there are none of the Hawk species. Of Herons there are two kinds, the one of a dark lead colour the natives bear a superstitious reverence towards, being always displeased at

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our shooting them. Parrot, or Ah Ah, The Green dove, and small blue Paroquet (Veney) are both brilliant i their plumage. They were brought to us in great numbers without being the least injured; but by what way they are taken I cannot say. One fellow who had made himself useful about the post, I employed to get some; he was absent in the mountains three days, returning with about two dozen, not at all injured or disfigured. Great pains were taken to bring them to England, but with scarcely any success. On quitting the Island I had above forty, apparently in high health, but a few months occasioned a mortality of the whole, both doves and paroquets. One pair of the latter if I recollect right, reached Lady Banks, whigh the gunner had by uncommon attention saved.

These little birds are about the size of a common house sparrow; they have all the character of the largest parrot except that of the imitation of speech. The colour is a beautiful dark blue, with a white throat, and yellow bill and legs.

There are of sea fowl, Sheerwaters, Tropic birds, noddies, and a small kind of Gull, with some others. In bad weather, which was rare, the small black petterel, (mother Carys chicken) was occasionally seen in the bay. Sand larks, red Shanks, and two or three kind of Curleius, frequent the shores and coral banks.

A light western wind accompanied the boat nearly to Oparrey, where we met the fresh sea breeze. Our course had been along the reef at about thirty yards distance, the bottom of coral, being visible nearly the whole way, although oFore

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considerable depth.

Pomaurey slept quietly by my side, until he was alarmed from his afternoons nap by my firing at a curlew, which produced a converstion on firearms. (Boobooey). He had some time before accused me of being afraid (Matow) for not suffering him to navigate the boat inside the reef. It appeared a good opportunity to retort on him, but this he did not at all feel, making to secret his want of courage, saying it was not necessary for a king to go into battle, and concluded by asking if "Keen Yore" (King George) ever did. Om being answered in the negative, he seemed more than usually pleased exclaiming Mite Mite (good) but he could not be perswaded that, it was not from want of personal courage in our Eree dahy.

The effect of early habit is particularly strong in the diffirent characters of the Otahytean royal family. Pomaurey from being taught that a King should not appear in battle, is the most pusilanimous man possible without feeling the least stigman attached to it, while Orepaia and Whidooah, arrogate no small degree of consequence to themselves as warriors, and are deemed the bulwarks of the state. There was another brother who seldom visited the Providence of the name of [blank] whose person was very inferior to the rest and, we were told, equally deficient in understanding. Most probably young Otoo has already been instructed in attending to his personal security. At a very early period the Eree da hy meets the regard and reverence of his people. Before France by its revolutionizing

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system had reached the sanguinary disorder now to be found there, no frenchman ever spoke of the "Grand Monarque" with more hearfelt pride and exultation than every individual of this island does of the Eree da hy. No wonder than that they use every care and precaution for his safety. His parents, and his parents parents, ever approach him with the most submissive respect. Those have I seen, while humanity revolted at the sight, uncover themselves and bow before the royal stripling, by early habit taught to view the tottering palsied Limbs of his grandsire thus nakedly degraded and exposed, without the slightest emotion of pity for compassion—Such is custom.

Bread fruit was now so scarce that it was with difficulty Pomaurey procured any for our repast, yet the trees around were teeming with young fruit of the approaching season,. It would appear that, the natives are supplied nearly throughout the year with this valuable fruit as it was now making rapid progress towards maturity, and a few of the preceeding season still on the tree. The rest had been cropped and made into a kind of paste called Mahee which keeps a considerable time. It is not with confidence that I speak respecting the seasons of the bread fruit, (Ooroo) it being collected from the chiefs, who stated that the Island is not above a month without it, which takes place about the middle of the year.

They enumerated nearly thirty kinds, yet differing but little in taste, or indeed in the appearance of the tree, except that, the leaves are more or less indented at their edges. I am

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denied giving a botanical description of this nutritious fruit, indeed, you must ere this, have seen the tree in our Colonies, however in an early state; I shall only observe that, of all vegetable substitutes for bread, it appears the most promising yet discovered.

Means may be found perhaps, to granulate it, but this we were not able to effect in the Providence. Baked whole, in the ground oven, was found to be the best way of cooking it. I do not know when I experienced more gratification than, during a recent visit to New Providence in the Bahamason seeing a fine bread fruit tree nearly twenty feet high in Mr. Forbes garden, which but a few years ago was embarked on board the Providence at Otahytey, when not as many inches. At Bermuda a few have been tried without success. Of the fate of some left at St. Helena in 1792 I am altogether ignorant, but should fear that, the soil was not favorable to them.

The earliest account I hace seen of the Bread fruit, is in the voyage of Mendana de Neyra in 1595, from Peru to settle the Solomon Isles. The Editor says

"Mendana de Neyra discovered the same year the islands he called Marquesas where a tree is described to yield a certain fruit which comes to be like the head of a boy, whose colour when ripe is a clear green, and extremely green when unripe; the outside appears with cross rays like the pine apple; the figure is not quite round, it is some what narrower at the point than at the foot; from hence grows a core which reaches to the middle and from this

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"core a web. It has no stone or kernel, nor anything useless escept the outside, and it is thin; the rest is one mass, with little juice when ripe, and less when green. Much were eaten in every way. It is so delicious that they called it blane manger. It was found to be wholesome and very nourishing. The leaves of it are large and very jagged in the manner of the papays"

The above description is doubtless meant for the bread fruit, and I have given you this extract, as well as a former one respecting the Yava (Cana) merely to point out that, the chief sustenance, of the natives of the South Sea Islands, as well as their favorite intoxicating beverage, did not differ two two centuries ago, from the present hour.

19th. Edeea this day sent me a hog and some bread fruit, the latter being a great rarity. Boiled plantains and a kind of yam (Tarro) were issued as a substitute to the crew. Not an ounce of Eutopean bread had been expended since our arrival, and so familiar has our palates become to the vegetable kind as not at all to feel the deprivation of the "Kings own." The supply of yams was never bountiful, and of but an inferior quality; sweet potatoes were still more difficult to be procured; Tarro was generally in plenty, and Cocoa nuts were ever brought to us in amazing numbers. It was calculated that, the daily expenditure of these fruit, on board the Providence, her consort, and at the Post, amounted to abocve a thousand, the milk from them being our common beverage. In our own colonies the

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Cocoa nut is not considered as by any means wholesome, but the conviction of its salutary effects on our people at Otahytey disposes me to doubt the truth of such an opinion.

26th. Early in the morning, Captain Bligh sent me to Tetaha in search of a native who had stolen a bag of linnen from the post. Pomaurey accompanied me to assist on the occasion. A few days before a fellow had been discovered concealed under one of the boats, who notwithstanding, effected his escape after being fired at by the centinal. The traces of his having been wounded was visible, a considerable way among the rushes. The Matavaians disclaimed his being of their district, saying he belonged to Tetaha; there was therefore a probability of hearing of him also in our excursion.

Mr. Portlock left Matavai before us for Atahourou, the next district South of Tetaha, to bring up one of the Matildas boats, which had been left there by some of the crew.

We landed with the cutter to the west of a small Island at the most distant part of Tetaha, in a cove where there was twelve or fourteen feet water close to the shore, notwithstanding, 'till this convenient spot presented itself, the boat could not approach within an hundred yards of the beach for the coral banks. A small stream, seperating Tetaha and Atahourour, runs into0 this cove.

Leaving a petty officer with the boat, Pomaurey, myself, and a few of the crew, continued our route, about three miles, following the windings of the

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shore, which here took a southerly direction, when we reached the house of the person suspected by the Matavaians, but found he had received intimation of the pursuit and absconded. On our entering the house, a young plantain tree was placed at the feet of Pomaurey as an acknowledgement of friendship. The women declaring that, the man was innocent, and had absented himself intirely from fear.

After representing the injustice of the act, by saying that the english were never guilty of stealing from the natives, we took our leave but not without a threat that, if the linen was not returned, Captain Bligh would send a party to the district and destroy the houses. This they said, were they guilty would be right, but still pleaded innocent, condemning the thief in loud and angry terms.

Pomaurey exerted himself but little on the occasion which, after so long a journey from Matavai, rather displeased me. This was the second expedition I had made with him on business, and it served to confirm me in an opinion I had formed of his indolence and want of authority. His brother Orepaia, ever settled any disputes we had with the natives, in a more prompt and satisfactory manner.

The Towtows had prepared two baked hogs for our dinner, but the King regent, after bathing in fresh water, took his meal, as usual, alone.

In the afternoon Mr. Portlock returned with the Matildas boat, bringing with him some chiefs from Atahourou, one of whom was marked to a very great degree with the

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scurf attendant on too great an indulgence in Yava. Every part of his body was covered with a rough scaly skin, his eyes seemed wild and wandering, and although a fine young man under thirty, every limb was sadly enervated. Notwithstanding the rapid and dreadful havoc this baneful beverage makes on the human frame, by abstinenece it wears off, the skin becomes smooth, and the bodily powers regain their pristine vigour.

The voluptuary of Otahytey, like the shattered, unhinged debauchee of our civilized metropolis, when every indulgence sickens on the sense, withdraws to a spot, where by self deni9al his health is restored. The small Island of Tetheroa, but a few leagues northward of Point Venus, abounding chiefly with fish and cocoa nuts, is his Margate or Tunbridge and is frequently resorted to on such occasions.

July 3d. As the tine approached for our departure, we began watering the ship from Matavai river. It has been observed that her capacity for stowage was very considerable, which was indispensable as we had a long an arduous passage to make by Torres straits to Timor before this necessary article could be replenished. The plants, it must be remembered, would require no small portion; every cask was therefore filled, which completed the stock to above an hundred tons.

4th. Some of the Matildas crew who had been at Oyteepeeah on the eastern peninsula

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reported having seen a cask and some other floating articles that had been on board when the ship was wrecked.

8th. The major part ot he royal family dined on board, all of them, but Pomaurey, who seldom put aside his native dress for european finery, appearing in sumptuous apparel. Edeeas dress was truly ridiculous, being a crimson coat with gold button holes, brought purposely from England by Captain Bligh as a present for her husband. Whyhereddy differed from her sister in wearing blue. One had a sheet wrapped round her waist, and the other a table cloth. Orepaia exhibited himself in a Captains uniform coat which had been given to him by Captain Edwards of the Pandora.

They supped and slept on board. Their whole conversation was now with great feeling, on our departure. We were told that the ceremony of wounding the head with a sharks tooth would take place, and A'row A'row Te Tye (a deal of crying).

Being employed at the watering place, Edeea learning it, with her usual kindness and consideration, sent every refreshment the Island afforded; and if with the assistance of our seamen a large baked hog was not demolished, I was abundantly gratified in filling the bellies of several of her Towtows, young and old partaking of her "Barbecue."

The remainder of the week was employed in preparations for sea; provisions reached us in abundance.

14th. More than half of the plants were this day embarked, and in the most healthy state, the natives assisting to convey them to the boats, yet not without

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heavy hearts at the thoughts of our departure. It was unsettled weather on the following day, which prevented the remainder being brought on board, but until night the two vessels were attended by canoes laden with various supplies. Hogs were so numerous that many could not be received for want of room to accommodate them. Fowls, the only kind of poultry on the Island, save a solitary gander left by Captain Vancouver a few months before, and which had become a "pet" at Oparrey, were difficult to procure – was more attention paid to rearing them, they would soon be abundant.

Among other articles, a quantity of Mahee, which is bread fruit made, after fermentation, into a paste, was taken on board for the stock; this kept a considerable time and was very nutritious. Besides live hogs, a quantity of pork had been salted in the manner described by Captain Cook, which was found to answer equal to any cured in the european way.

Every hour served to convince me of the unfeigned sorrow of these gentle people at our approaching seperation. For my Tayo I made a selection of every article likely to add to her comforts, but she had unfortunately fixed her affections on a fowling piece. Full convinced that weapons of a destructive kind should if possible, be witheld from these naturally peaceful beings, I resisted her solicitations for a considerable time, but her heart clung to it, and she became so urgent that, I could not deny my consent any longer, provided it met our commanders approval.

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This by perseverance she effected, and the gun was received wiht the most greedy satisfaction.

Among other trifles she was left a small portrait of her Tayo with the dates of the arrival and departure of the Providence and as at its back. And here James, I can not refrain from remarking with what friendly care and reverence a picture of Captain Cook by Webber (painted while at Otahytey in his last voyage) was preserved by Pomaurey. Nothing I suppose could tempt this amiable chief to part with it. Much did I covet the polygraphic secret, to steal the portrait of this immortal Navigator, which was said by those who knew him, to be a most striking resemblance. It has been customery fo the diffirent commanders of vessel visiting the Island to note on the back of this picture the time of their arrival and departure. Somd other tablet must now be found, as visits have been so frequent, no more space is left. We were not a litle hurt at only seeing the bare mention of the arrival and sailing of the Pandora, as our anxiety was great to know what steps had vbeen taken to secure the wretched mutineers of the Bounty. In some degree we were relieved from this doubt by the comminication [communicstion] of the chiefs.

Mideedee, who had before been mentioned, determined about this timne to accompany us to England, indeed, there was I believe, scarcely an individual that would not with a little perswasion have embarked with us. The friends of poor Mideedee, however ansious, have vainly looked for his return among them. Voluntarily he quitted his own thoughtless countrymen,

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in search of more enlightened ones, but in a few short weeks after setting his foot on the british shore a british grave received him.

Several men, late of the Matilda, now embarked for a passage home, but four or five remained by choice on the Island, one of whom was a jew convict that had come in her from Port Jackson. To those who remained Captain Bligh with great consideration addressed a letter exhorting them to peace and good conduct, but if unfortunately, after the departure of the Providence, hostilities should take place, to give their assistance to the royal party. Old Hamminaminhay, the high priest, was charged with this letter, who, notwithstanding his confidence in our commander, brought it to several of us to know if it was mite (good) which on being assured, gave him great relief.

16th. In the morning, the remainder of the plants were taken on board, amounting, with those already embarked, to
Bread fruit or Ooroo 780 large pots, 301 small pots, 35 Tubs, 26 Boxes. The major part contained more than one plant. Many of them, three or four plants.
Avee, or O'tahytean Apple 8 large pots, 17 small pots.

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E'Mattey 5 large Pots, 1 small Pot. A beautiful red dye is produced with the E'Mattey and Ettow, the juice of the berry of the former and leaf of the latter.
E'ttow 2 large Pots, 4 small ones
A'ayah 4 large pots, 31 small ones. A fruit in some degree resembling the Avee
Oraiah 10 large pots. A superior kind of plantain
Vahee 2 large pots
Peyah 7 large pots. The root of the Peyah is made into a delicious pundding
Eratta or Chesnut 18 large pots, 17 small pots
Other rare Plants 8 small pots, 2 Tubs

If you refer to the "plan and Section" of the Garden on board the Bounty (which is among your fathers books) it will give you a more perfect knowledge of our method of stowing the plants than any thing I can say. It may however be observed that, as well as the great cabin of the Providence both sides of the after part of her Quarter deck were fitted at Otahytey for the same purpose, leaving narrow gangways next the skylight for the movements of the crew.

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Accompanied by a vast concourse of natives, our Commandant of the Post, with Pearce and his marines, in the afternoon marched to Point Venus, where boats were in readiness to embark them. When they put off from the shore three cheers were given by the crews and returned by the more numerous Islanders, who shed many a tear on the occasion.

Before the day closed Captain Bligh sent me to fill a few casks of water. Not a native was to be seen; grief had drawn them to the other side of the Matavai. It was the first eveing for more than three months that Point Venus had not been the scene of festivity and good humour. Our encampment was deserted; a flagless staff bespoke its evacuation, and great was my relief from such a cheerless spot, shen I returned to my associates on board.

The ship was unmoored and launch hoisted in, the next morning. Many improvemtns, as well as to the other boats had been made during our stay to render them more safe in case of accident to the ship in the subsequent part of the voyage, which was by far the most perilous; And as the crew was increased one of the Matildas boats was taken on board.

Both vessels were tumultuously crowded with natives of both sexes, heavily laden with various farewell presents for their English Tayos, who not ungrateful to the kindness of these good people were equally liberal in return. Young Otoo was about us the whole day nearly, in his canoe, but as usual could not be perswaded to come on board; the only instance where an unlimited confidence was not placed

[Marginal note:]
The boats were able to contain all the Crew – in case of Shipwreck.

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in us, and we were willihg to attribute it to the custom of not entering any house but his own.

There was no Heeva or merriment in the evening. Many at sun set, took their leave with a tearful eye, while others continued on board the whole night unwilling to lose the last attentions of such of our shipmates as they were attached to.

18th. Numbers of canoes were around us by early dawn bringing yet more provisions, the ship being so crowded we could hardly move. In the offing there was a strong trade wind, but, to the great delight of the natives, Matavai bay was becalmed.

After dinner the anchor was weighed, when, with the assistance fo the boats, accompanied by our consort, we reached the sea breeze.

As we encreased our distance from the shore the natives reluctantly quitted us, many vainly strove to follow in their canoes, expressing their sorrow by loud and reiterated lamentations, while some who had particularly attached themselves to the vessels or the post, were seen tearing their hair, and heedless of the pain, wounding their heads with a sharks tooth as on the death of a relation.

Pomaurey, Orepaia, Edeea, and several Chiefs continued on board all night, during which a safe situation was kept in the offing. It might be almost said that we had the whole Court on board, yet such was their good faith, the cruise did not at all alarm them.

19th. Early in the morning, the vessels

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stood in towards Oparrey.

Captain Blifh had bountifully supplied his Tayo Pomaurey and his other visitores with a variety of useful articles; and what particularly delighted the King regent, our commander was so strongly solicited for a musket, he could not resist giving one. This encreased Pomaureys "armory" to about a dozen, for the supply of which he had a considerable quantity of ammunition. Besides those in his possession, there were about fifteen more in different parts of the Island. Unfortunately, in the use of them, the natives are by no means ignorant.

The parting between Captain Bligh and his friends was kind and affectionate. They seperated in the heart felt conviction of having no want of harmony and good will to reproach themselves with.

It was my lot to convey the chiefs on shore. The boat was heavily laden with their various presents, serving in some degree to dissipate their sorrow; yet could not poor Edeea imprison her tears, and had I encouraged such an infirmity, verily do I believe that, however "albeit unused to the melting mood" the whole boats crew would have admitted the sorrowful infection. Reaching Oparrey a vast number of the inhabitants were assembled to take the last look of their English friends. An old lady, who had been ceaseless in her visits to the ship, brought cocoa nuts and other fruit to refresh the boats crew. Captain Bligh was anxiously waiting our return, which made my farewell interview with these happy

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Islanders but short; yet was it so distressing a one, I was glad to hurry from the scene. Old Torano's heart was full, and pressing my hand, she could only say, Youra no t'Eotooa te meedey (God bless you on the deep).

Among the multitude, many were seen with whom we had been in constant habits of cordial intimacy and mutual kindness. When we left the shore not a word was heard, but every look beamed silent solicitude and concern for our safety, nor 'till long after the "less'ning boat" was safe on board and by the weather helm the ship obedient was "cast to sea," did they turn slowly from the beach to their peaceful habitations.

My pen is now about to quit this delightful Isle, yet ere it does, a few more crude observations, which may not have found a place in the preceeding sheets, shall be hazarded, under a conviction that, from your knowledge of the early habits and avocations of the writer you will pass over with an indulgent eye, the inaccuracy of diction which cannot but too often occur. Such is almost inseperable from our "calling" wishing it were otherwise will avail nought; you must therefore take the "will for the deed.—" for the present, farewell.

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