Chapter 8 Home Tobin's Narrative
Revised Jun 9 2021
272 1792 October
Arrive at Timor – Dutch brig – Transactions at Timor, and Departure – Double the Cape, homewards – Arrive at St. Helena – Short stay – Transactions, &c &c – Arrive at St. Vincents – Leave part of the plants – Mideedee and Baubo inoculated – Arrive at Jamaica – War with France – Detention at the Island – Fit out a Tender – Mideedee sick – Visit Mr. Raymond – Leave Jamaica – Arrive in the Downs – Proceed up the Thames – The Plants sent to Kew Gardens – Captain Bligh – Promotion – The ship paid off &c &c &c
Thetis, Coast of America June 1797.
The vessels now (Octor. 1792) entered the straits of Roti, and thence, passing Samu and part of Timor, came in sight of Coupang bay and a brig at anchor near the town. Nearly ten months had passed since an European vessel had been seen from the Providence, save her little Assistant, and you cannot but suppose that the appearance of this "square rigged" one, afforded us great satisfaction. We soon after anchored in [blank] fathom water, when the cutter was despatched to acquaint the Governor of Coupang of our arrival, and
273 1792 October Timor
procure a pilot. Two or three Malayan boats passed us in the course of the day, carrying an extraordinary large sail, apparently of matting. On rising early the next morning, Guthrie had returned from Coupang with Captain Bouberg of the dutch brig, and the melancholy intelligence of the shipwreck of the Pandora at the eastern entrance of the Straits through which we had so providentially searched our way. This circumstance has been before noticed but it is right to add that Captain Edwards with the preserved part of the crew, left Timor for Europe, by the way of Batavia, about a twelvemonth before our arrival.
The anchor being weighed Capt. Bouberg conducted us safely to Coupang, where it was again dropped in [blank] fathom water, about [blank] from the Town, the Fort bearing [blank].
Coupang is of no great extent, but its situation remarkably pleasant, a fine stream, on whose banks are the Mangoe, Plantain, Bread fruit, Cocoa nut, and other trees, running through the town. A Fort of no great strength, but in good repair, commands the mouth of the river. Including military, the Dutch inhabitants did not reach an hundred, yet they felt the greatest confidence in their security, notwithstanding the many Malayan powers in the neighbourhood, none of which bear them any good will. During our stay a Malayan chief was banished to Batavia for life on a charge of disaffection to the Dutch Government. This unhappy wretch was sent a prisoner on board Captain Boubergs brig; I was present when he was removed to her. His wives and offspring attended him to the sea shore to take their last heart rending farewell. It was a scene truly distressing to humanity, but the hand of power imposed it, and beyond the hope of change; while amid the tears and agonized embraces—never alas again to be
274 1792 October Timor
known—of those who had hitherto felt happiness, but as he felt it, was this devoted victim hurried, to worse than death—an eternal seperation from all he loved. Nor does it appear that the Malayans are the only nation subject to the will of the Batavian flag, on this Island. There is a Chinese settlement adjoining Coupang whose inhabitants, double in number to the dutch, patiently allow their gates to be closed on them every night, and without a murmur, submit to the most oppressive taxes. These people were particularly studious to procure fire arms from us to barter with the Malayans for slaves.
Bees was and sandalwood, brought to Coupang from the distant part of Timor and the neighbouring Isles, are the chief articles of exportation, but on a very small scale indeed, yet two vessels come annually from Batavia partly laden with India and European goods. Of the sandalwood, a considerable quantity is used by the Chinese on religious occasions.
Most of the Dutch were married to Malayan women, a mongrel race filling all the houses. The Town boasted but a solitary European female, the clergymans wife, whose attachment to her husband led her to this distant spot. Some of the Malayans were not destitute of beauty—if such there can be, without the lily or the rose—and, in their forms they were most interestingly delicate, with such a profusion of long dark hair as to have reached the ground if not confined, in the most fanciful ways. They are of neglect, jealous to a degree unknown in colder regions, and have been known to administer poison to their husbands on their quitting the country for Europe; such strong fears being entertained on this head, that it is in general done by stealth leaving the Malayan Nymphs "to sigh alone." We were informed of slow poison having been given to a truant husband at Batavia, the
275 1792 October Timor
effects of which did not appear until his arrival in Holland, when he was so alarmed that he embarked on his return to India without loss of time, nor ever made a second experiment of putting the healing qualities of his wife to the test. How much cooler do our own matrons act, in voting the "green-eyed monster" obsolete by the aid of indiffirence, or perhaps retaliation, when their "good men" are caught seceding. The natives about the Town appeared to be a wretched race of half formed beings, and the hateful custom of chewing the beetle nut, which causes a red saliva to be constantly exuding from the mouth adds to their disgusting appearance; yet this constitutes their chief solace and pride, the greatest pains being taken to have their beetle equipage, which hangs over the should[er], as grand as possible. In this bag the various ingredients used with the nut are kept. Both sexes indulge in it, even the pretty women at the Governors table were unacquainted with the fascinating powers of a naturally white set of teeth, ceaselessly taking from their purity by this offensive compound.
It was the study of Mynheer Vanion to render our short stay at Coupang as agreeable as possible; A gentleman who moves like a little potentate in this distant corner of the globe; yet is it accompanied by the most cordial hospitality. Several times within these few years it has fallen to the lot of this worthy Governor to relieve our shipwrecked or distressed countrymen. He was kind enough to allow us the perusal of a journal kept by Bryant along the Eastern coast of New Holland to Timor, after escaping in a boat from the settlement of Port Jackson in March 1791. In this journal there was an interesting account of his various distresses and escapes from the natives. It appeared that not far northward of Port Jackson Bryant found coal of
276 1792 October Timor
of a good quality within a few feet of the surface of the ground. In what Latitude I cannot charge my memory. This enterprising man had with him in the boat a female partner and her two children who, he observes, bore their sufferings with more fortitude than most among them. It never came to my knowledge what became of Bryant after his departure from Timor for Europe in a dutch India ship with Captain Edwards and the Pandora's crew. At Coupang it was said that the period of his transportation had expired—perhaps he wished to avoid returning at all to his own country by the desperate step which he took with his fellow convicts to reach this foreign settlement.
Mynheer Vanion besides his house at Coupang had a coll retirement on the banks of the river at Pantassey, a short walk from the Town. We were, some of us, at his table daily, where there was ever an honest welcome, but we murmured internally at the custom of sitting down with the sun on the meridian and rising with the cloth. Yet, if we did rise with the cloth the fault rested with ourselves if we did not get a sufficient quantity of tolerable claret, as in no part of the world is this serious business of drinking—save sitting long at it—"better ordained." The glass once filled, so may it remain, but the instant the contents are removed down your throat, a servant again fills it to the brim. Before and after meals, several beautiful Malayan girls of twelve or thirteen years of age; dressed uniformly in white, make a circuit of the company with water in which are sprigs of orange or some other fragrant tree, and a salver with sandal wood powder on it to use as a perfume after ablution. The procession has a pretty effect. Both their hands being engaged a napkin is fastened to the shoulder of each of them for the use of the guests. As in most eastern countries the afternoon is passed in repose. Towards sun set they rise, and in smoking, cards, music, coffee, and afterwards supper, nearly the whole night is passed a few hours only being allowed
277 1792 October Timor
to recruit for the approaching day.
Our crews were supplied with beef of two kinds, the common large Indian Buffalo, and another not much above half the size. Few other refreshments were to be procured, particularly vegetables which was attributed to a long continuance of dry weather. This we subsequently found to have been the case at St. Helena, and indeed it would seem that scarcely any rain had fallen the whole year between the equinoctial line and the southern Tropic in the track passed by the Providence and Assistant. It was almost in vain that we courted showers to assist our stock of water, which reduced the crew to a scanty allowance as they approached Torres Straits, notwithstanding the Providence stowed an hundred and ten tons and our Assistant in proportion. But the plants as well as ourselves required moisture. It is true there was a machine on board for distilling sea water, but, if I recollect right, fifteen gallons was the greatest quantity ever produced in a day, nor was it by any means free from a brackish quality.
An anxiety to reach our destined port soon hurried us away. The parching winds between New Holland and New Guinea had caused much mortality in the Garden, but the plants were yet numerous, and in a flattering state, and to land as many as possible in our own colonies demanded every degree of care and attention. It was with anxious apprehension we looked toward the inclement weather almost inseperable in doubling the African Cape, where, if the vessels passed it, even in sight, the plants would be seventeen degrees South of their native soil, exposed to the baneful effects of the polar winds which frequently, even in the summer season, blow with considerable coolness.
Some very fine mangoes, and other plants, were here taken on board.
The Crews had been unavoidably hard worked in watering which joined to the deleterious effects of an inferior
278 1792 December Timor, St. Helena
kind of Arrack encreased the sick list considerably, but by care and attention this was of shore continuance.
The Variation of the Compass in Coupang Road per Mean of several sets of Azim'ths with diffirent compasses (not by GT) was 1°..1′ Westy.
Some acquatic birds by seamen called St. Helena Pigeons were now (Decr. [blank] 1792) seen, a certain indication of being in the neighbourhood of the Island. More than sixteen months had passed without any communication with our own country, indeed we were altogether ignorant of what had taken place on the Grand Theatre of Europe, for at Timor little information was to be collected, you will therefore well understand our feelings at again seeing the British flag flying on Terra Firma.
Sailing almost within the surge beating on St. Helenas rigid shores to secure an anchorage, you pass a small fort where a board is affixed instructing the commanders of vessels (in various languages) to "send a boat on shore before they anchor." The Town soon after opens to the view, situated in a chasm formed by two dreary mountains having batteries on them commanding the anchorage, the one on Ladder Hill to the westward, of considerable strength. A neat Church rises above a row of trees nearly parallel with the beach, and higher up some
179 1792 December St. Helena
scattered palms and cocoa nut trees wave above the houses. The landing place, on which there are cranes and every convenience for trade, is in general easy of access. Water for the shipping has been conveyed by pipes to this quay, but it can be procured at other parts of the island if required. The Barracks and Hospital are at the upper part of the Town, and near them some ground was preparing for a public walk and kitchen garden for the military. A road on either side leads to the country, but the acclivity to Ladder Hill is so great that, to use a nautic phrase, many Tacks must be made to reach the summit, nor without a stranger feeling some apprehension for the footing of the steeds, until from experience he finds they clamber these craggy steeps with ease and serenity. A ride of about four miles carrys you to the Country Seat of Governor Brooke passing to the right of a richly cultivated valley interspersed with farm houses, the more to be admired from the contrasted bare and rugged mountains that shelter it. Neither the House or grounds of Mr. Brooke were completed, but his elegant and enlarged taste cannot fail of rendering it a most desirable spot. Though within sixteen degrees of the equinoctial line, the climate was here particularly mild and refreshing The oak, the plantain, and bamboo, were luxuriantly growing in the same group; but, it was said that some of the more tender tropical fruits could not resist the coldness of the southern winds. Of the fate of some bread fruit plants left by Captain Bligh I have seen no account but there is reason to fear that the soil would not be congenial to them. Our botanists were by no means sanguine in the hope of their succeeding. Indeed the climate of St. Helena though nearer the equinoctial line is by no means so warm as at Otahytey, which was another difficulty for the plants to struggle with. It is beyond me to account why there should be this diffirence, but I cannot help hazarding an opinion that the air in the southern hemisphere is more cool and temperate than northward of the Line. Over such parts of the world
280 1792 December St. Helena
as your friend had voyaged between the Tropics he has invariably found the North East trade wind to be more close and oppressive than the South East. Is it not possible that the difference is owning to the great bodies of ice so often seen at no great distance South of the southern Tropic. The Guardian, it may be remembered, only twenty three degrees south of the Tropic of Capricorn experienced a most melancholy disaster by striking on them affording the zealous and persevering Rion an opportunity of evincing that in no case, however desperate, should hope be put away.
Ice Islands, it is true, have been seen in the North Atlantic, but by no means in masses of such magnitude. In this ship on our passage from Plymouth to America in June 1794 we were some days among detached bodies of ice, but the largest did not appear to be a quarter of a mile in circuit at its base above the surface of the sea. The Latitude was 40½° North Longitude 48° West. Some sketches taken of them will give you an idea of their from and appearance. Probably this ice came from the neighbourhood of the St. Lawrence, the straits of Bellisle, or northern part of Newfoundland.
At St. Helena nothing of the indolent languor and lassitude of the Creole, or European settler in Hindustan, is to be seen, but sturdy old men, healthy children, and fair ones who look "The bloom of young desire." It is here, after toiling the most desirable moiety of life under the pressure of a parching sun, to amass the riches of the East, the returning Nabob is first emended of his country "long left." In a ride up the country, we were more than commonly pleased by observing the inhabitants engaged in a match of cricket with no small degree of skill and still more cheerfulness and vigour and this at a season by no means the coolest, than which nothing further need be said in favour of the climate. Yet may it be remarked that some of Mr. Brookes rooms were provided with a fire place to counteract the wintry chills sometimes felt in an Island only sixteen degrees from the equinoctial line.
281 1792 December St. Helena
The great influx of strangers, who after the tossing of a long voyage naturally covet a little rest on dry land has induced the inhabitants to open their houses for boarders in the same way as at the Cape of Good Hope, but ones own language being spoken we felt more "at home" than when under the roof of a dutch landlord. The visitor to St. Helena forgets that he is paying twelve shillings a day for meat, drink and sleep in the conciliatory manners of those who are the richer for it. He is generally a long while removed from the fairer part of the creation, nor can he help drawing a comparison between the brown or sable damsels he has left and the delicate red and white interblended in the cheeks of the fair inhabitant of this Isle. Nothing helps a man to get in love so much as a long voyage. At least such have I found to be the case—with most of my fellow voyagers, though perhaps few of them could assign a rational reason for it; and I verily believe no one was ever five days at this island without getting a wound from the eyes of some fair damsel or other—yet probably not so deep, but that a cure was effected ere the North East trade wind was passed on the return to England. A few at the Islands have received the advantage of a "finish" at some of our fashionable seminaries in the British Metropolis, but this fortunately, is not common, nor did I discover any solid advantages they had reached over their friends educated in the Island. Nor indeed ever could; and you must here allow me to diverge a little from my narrative.
The unmeaning flippancy, of some and turgid affectation of others, to blandish over more knowledge than the young female should have to her share, and which at these stews of folly is inhaled in large and dangerous doses, cannot bu fail to please. Yet is it the wish, the weak silly wish of every matron that her daughters should undergo this last purification from "homespun manners." I write from a country where this refined "finish" is not aimed at; yet are its females not destitute of those real graces and acquirements which under them "lovely in the eyes of men." And I could here
282 1792 December St. Helena
challenge the whole Sisterhood of Bedford, Bloomesbury, and Queen Squares, whether married or in a virgin state, to deny that such is their daily labour with the young plants who, with great profundity are committed to their charge. On the contrary, the women here possess in general, a share of information and honest sense, rendered doubly interesting by the coy bashfulness in which it is hid. The loud laugh and commanding tone have not yet crossed the Atlantic nor, however "fondlie fashioned," do we in the high way meet "limbes scorning all the draparie of arte." And, were I the father of American daughters, most fervently should I pray against the importation of such bold and meretricious accomplishments.
In former letters, this subject has, I believe, been mentioned, and although the little intercourse I have had with the American states has been chiefly on their shores, where European luxury has made advances the interior is happily ignorant of, even at the Sea ports, virtue seems to dwell, and be more encouraged than amongst ourselves. The public prints which we get from you teem with repeated tales of vice and infidelity, nor does rank, or even age bridle this unbounded licence. Surely the system of education cannot be correct, or are we, which heaven forbid, on the eve of rising impiously superior—like our enlightened neighbours—to every thing that has hitherto been deemed conducive to morality and the happiness of mankind? Human nature is sometimes known to fall even in these woods; but such is rare, as the American women conscious they were brought into existence for a purpose not trifling, pass through life, diffirent from the pleasurable many of our own who, with the heart felt conviction of having been faithful to their husbands, and tenderly attached and careful of their offspring.
Fain would I not think—much more say, even in friendly confidence, a word bearing the semblance of severity towards the more lovely half of this worlds inhabitants, whether scattered over this or the other quarter of it. 'Tis the ill judged education imposed on but too many, distorting their every natural charm, which my pen
283 1792 December St. Helena
dares condemn. To woman, dear and heavenly woman are we indebted for all that constitutes real happiness. To them, we owe everything, and without, all would be cold and cheerless. To be rewarded by their worth and charms, all difficulties and toil vanish into air. For them we fearlessly brave the ceaseless dangers of the angry element, and pestilential air of murderous climates. From scarcely a boy, have I been ranging oer various parts of the globe, as well where refinement and civilization beamed their influence, as in countries where nature was pure and unadulterated; but in either, rare has it been that, when looking for kindness and sympathy in the hearts of women, I have looked in vain, nor have met that dark caution and distrust too often the inmates of the rougher sex. They are in truth necessary to our journey, to our very existence, and the only real solace that makes life worth coveting, and which removed, makes it a dreary blank indeed. From us indeed, wanderers of the ocean, too long, and too often shut out. Yet however distant, a fond assurance of their faith—sometimes doubtless, too lightly pledged—journeys with us, and softens the pangs of absence. This hope, fills the mind, this, is our only theme; whether bleak tempests threaten our frail bark, on she glides smoothly oer the gentle surface of the deep, in regions where the canvas solicits not in vain the exhaustless pressure of perennial breezes.
Including slaves, the Island contained about two thousand inhabitants besides five hundred troops belonging to the East India Company who were very well "appointed." From an early age the inhabitants are embodied in the Militia, so that with the natural defence of its rugged coast, and the improving works of Mr. Brooke, the Island may be considered as tenable against a formidable force.
284 1792 December St. Helena
Signal posts have been established on several eminences, by which means communication is made of the approach of vessels.
A continuance of dry weather had considerably checked vegetation and occasioned great mortality among the cattle, our crew however enjoyed a "skin full" of fresh beef for their Christmas dinner, a viand they had almost forgotten the flavour of, without the Buffalo at Timor might be so called. Scarcely any stock was to be procured, or vegetables but a few potatoes, some of which i afterwards got planted at St. Vincents in the hope they would succeed better than those from England or America. Although so far within the Tropic, the Potatoes of St. Helena have not the sweet flavour of those in the West Indies. Water cresses were procured in the greatest abundance at no great distance from the town, by sending a few men daily to gather them.
From laws prohibiting its destruction but at certain seasons, game was encreasing fast on the island. Besides Pheasants, Partridges, and rabbits, Guinea fowls and peacocks are to be found in a wild state. The coast and banks abound with fish. A small kind of spanish mackarel were taken at the anchorage with hook and line. Turtle are sometimes caught; and while speaking of this nutritious food we cannot but lament that the island of Ascension, remarkable for producing them in numbers, is situated so directly to leeward, though at no great distance, the difficulty of beating up against the trade wind discourages the inhabitants of St. Helena from undertaking voyages to it. But, while we have possession of the Cape of Good Hope, or are in peace with whoever may be the inhabitants, this little Island need not fear getting supplies from that land of plenty, and this may be necessary, should the regular store ships fail reaching the settlement from England.
To quit the place would be ungrateful, after the gratification afforded by it, and pass unnoticed the the very curious
285 1792 December St. Helena
museum of Major Robson the Lieutenant Governor. Here, the persevering labours of many years are open to the inspection of every visitor, nor will the naturalist, the antiquary or the admirer of the rude implements of indian nations, find their morning unprofitably spent in examining this collection. There are some Asiatic coins and images of great antiquity. The Shells are scientifically arranged, the variety of dresses, ornaments, and other articles from diffirent newly discovered countries perhaps is not exceeded by any collection in the world. Indeed Major Robson has opportunities of continually augmenting them from vessels that touch at St. Helena in their way to Europe from many distant parts of the globe.
We here learnt the state of affairs in Europe, that the success of the french had extended their views to a system of equality 'over the face of the earth" and that a war with England was far from improbable. The Providence and her little Tender were not fitted for hostilities, and we could not but wish for peace to continue until the plants were safely deposited in their destined ground, after all the anxiety and labour that had been bestowed in nursing them.
As well as public news, I was gratified on our arrival in finding letters from the family; but there is, in the demolition of the containing wax, something so trying after long absence that, a pause always takes place ere the fingers "do their office." Our dearest friends may be no more—or estranged by seperation. A single line may chill expectations which have filled the heart for many a tedious month. Such are the fears that intrude. Happy those who have never realised them. Nothing of the kind was imposed on me. On the contrary the kindest assurance of affectionate remembrance, and an ardent hope for my return.
It might be said that we were travelling "post," the whole way to the West Indies, which admitted
286 December 1792 St. Helena
but of a short stay at this singularly romantic little spot. A considerable degree of time had been lost in "doubling the Cape" by strong and adverse winds against which the ships were struggling a full fortnight, and would have been driven far eastward had not a current from that quarter checked it. It is rather remarkable that during this tempestuous weather the plants suffered but little.
In our passage from Timor to this Island we buried one of the marines, a man advanced in years, whose constitution was much impaired by intemperance. He acted as steward to our Mess, which gave him but too many opportunities of indulging in this sad propensity. our Cook died afterwards on the passage to the West Indies. These were the only men who fell by disease until our arrival at Jamaica, above eighteen months after our departure from England; and, in general, a degree of health was enjoyed by the crew not often to be found among the same number of persons on shore.
Baubo condemned in angry terms our throwing the Corpses overboard, saying it would be cold (Maridday) for them, and that, they ought to be hung at the jib boom end 'till the ship reached port, adding that, the sharks would eat them, (Mow, ma de tata.)
Both the Otahyteans were frequently on shore and highly delighted with the buildings and fortifications, but the military band at the relief of Guard, afforded them more gratification than any thing they had yet seen. The mistaken hospitality of some one was the means of Mideedee getting much intoxicated, of which he was so much ashamed as for several weeks to be continually expressing his sorrow at it. In a walk up Ladder Hill with this gentle Islander it was amusing to observe the critical examination some old soldiers made of him, at length one asked a comrade, "And
287 December 1792 St. Helena
"what do you suppose will be done with him on his arrival in England?" "Why you fool" he answered "what should I suppose, why he will be put in the Tower to be sure for a rare sight." As such a decision was pronounced by the artillery man—in pure innocence of heart, I did not feel so displeased at their disposing of our friend with the wild beasts of the creation, as at Jamaica some moths after, when it was observed with profound solemnity, and by one of higher rank than the St. Helena soldier that "he would no doubt undergo the inspection of the Antiquarian Society in London." But, had not the "grim tyrant" clutched poor Mideedee ere he had barely reached our Isle—his friends, and they were many in the Providence—would in gratitude have administered to his happiness and comfort, nor treated him like an old Coin, or rare quadruped from the wilds of Africa.
The Variation of the Compass taking the mean of the observations on board (not by GT) 15°..31 Westy.
288 1793 January St. Vincent
The vessel made a very find passage from St. Helena to St. Vincent in twenty seven days, when a proportion of the bread fruit and other plants were landed and deposited in the Botanic Garden, a short distance from the town of Kingston. If I recollect right, there were about three hundred of the former, bring nearly half that reached the West Indies.
The hospitable inhabitants had been anxiously looking for the arrival of Captain Bligh, and during our stay were studious to render it agreeable by every attention. You know that, I was here "at home," but my shipmates, who were strangers, so felt the same.
To attempt giving any account of a place so often described, and if I mistake not, visited by yourself, is unnecessary. It shall only be observed that, if Otahytey was in a state of sugar cultivation, with a few buildings about the middle hills, it would have much the aspect of great part of St. Vincent, particularly where the land is low near the sea.
A collection of plants were here furnished us by Doctor Anderson, chiefly for the Royal Gardens at Kew, but several were to be left at Jamaica.
The small pox was prevailing in the Island, which induced Captain Bligh to have Baubo and Mideedee inoculated. The confidence they placed in him quieted any apprehensions they otherwise might have entertained, yet could they not well reconcile the idea of voluntarily inflicting disease, when told that it was commonly practiced. They received the infection favorably, but afterwards at Jamaica suffered much from illness; indeed Mideedee's health and cheerfulness had been on the decline a long while, nor can it be said that he ever enjoyed the former except for three or four months from his first becoming our shipmate.
290 1793 February Jamaica
Early in this month (the [blank]) the vessels arrived safely at Port Royal, and soon after, the remainder of the plants were landed, except a number of the stronger ones which we afterwards carried to Port Moran for the Botanic Garden at Bath, no great distance from that harbour. Out floating forest was eagerly visited by numbers of every rank an degree, and in fact it was a most gratifying sight however much reduced in numbers. The poor negroes, for whose benefit the voyage was chiefly promoted, were loud in their praises of "de ship d hab e bush" and were constantly paddling round her in their canoes.
But she was soon to come into "the Line" with a more warlike appearance, and to the great annoyances of my peaceful cabin, where a new visitor in a four pounder was placed. This arose from the arrival of a packet with the news of war having been declared against Great Britain by the French Nation. It totally altered our plans. The commander in Chief despatched his cruizers against the Enemy, while the ship that "had the bush" was honored with a broad pendant; previously to which indeed, she had (on the report of an attack being intended by the Sans Cullotes on Jamaica) been brought into the "Line of Battle."
This was in April. Some plants which had been taken on board for Kew Gardens were again landed.
Any difficulties hitherto encountered were light when compared to this listless uninteresting situation. Prizes were arriving daily, nor could we help[ feeling sore at being detained as a mere Guardship, without consideration to the immediate object of the voyage. The prospect of taking home a Convoy did not serve to make us more contented, and this we were anticipating.
291 1793 May Jamaica
The Providence still being a fixture, we became very clamorous for a Tender to cruise about Hispaniola which Wore Ship at length complied with by the Commander in Chief. A Prize schooner was accordingly fitted and victualled from both vessels and sailed on a cruise for three weeks. She was Christened the Resource, having forty men with six three pounders, six swivels, and plenty of arms for boarding. Guthrie Commanded her and your correspondent would have been his first Lieutenant, but the Commodore had an objection to more than one commissioned officer being absent from the Providence. The outfit altogether was indeed, in a manner, "under the rose."
Fortune did not attend the Resource as she returned without having made a single Capture, although every zealous effort was made by her commander. The truth is, she was a day "after the fair."
The very high wages given by the merchants caused desertion among out crew which could hardly have been expected; in short, we may date our detention a Jamaica squall the most untoward part of the voyage in every respect. It has been mentioned that Baubo and Mideedee suffered from illness at this island, nor were the officers and ships company exempt from it, a very promising young gentleman by the name of Hind fell a martyr to the yellow fever in a few days. Your friend was attacked with dysentery, but by attention and the aid of a good constitution soon "weathered" it.
In the hope that a change of air might be of service to poor Mideedee Captain Bligh allowed him to accompany me on a visit to a Mr. Raymond near Port Henderson. The heart of this worthy man was gratified at the thought of affording him relief. His House, horses, and carriage were at Mideedees disposal and a temporary amendment took
292 1793 May Jamaica
but, 'twas a false promise. The very day on which the pendant was struck on board the Providence at Woolwich, and we all quitted her for our diffirent families—He, poor fellow, struck his pendant—to be no more hoisted. His remains are in the church yard a Deptford.
Our much esteemed Messmate Harwood, wrote Top a moment, in the genuine sorrow of his soul, the following Epitaph for him
"Stranger, with solemn step approach, and know, "A fav'rite son of nature sleeps below. "From that fam'd Queen of Southern Isles he came, "Fair Otahytey; fir'd by british fame: "And Providence each deep safe wafted oe'r, "Yet only gave to hail the promis'd shore; "For here could life, alas! no more supply, "Than just to Cook around him, and to die"
Little did this poor Islanders host, imagine he was on the eve of paying the same debt. Yet so it was ordained, for ere we quitted Jamaica, Raymond was beckoned away. In the last letter I received from him, he says "And how is Mideedee? May he be restored to the inestimable blessing of health, and return in safety to his native isle." It was a washing and mending and pious wish, but our poor Otahytean reached neither.
The muse in a few lines on this unexpected event listened to our worthy Doctor. Raymond had often pointed out to us, when but a few weeks before high in health, a particular tree under whose umbrage he wished his gross materials to be laid when animation quitted them. We passed with him Ned, very many happy hours, and well do I remember that his singularly excentric, yet gentle manners, gained him your warm admiration, nor did they
293 1793 May Jamaica
differ much from your own. Four lines before me in your hand writing, say
"Here gentle Raymond lies; the stroke of death,
"A soul more worthy ne'er depriv'd of breath;
"While those, who now deplore his fate survive,
"He'll live, where living, he most wish'd to live.
But our medical messmate had not always occasion to be in the persevere mood. Not many weeks after leaving
the british coast, the boards of our round house (You have already been carried to this mansion)
were pencil'd with the following kind wishes for its occasional visitors
"Here may ye never, social souls complain, "Of constipated gut or costive brain; "Here, may ye sit secure, in thoughts profound "And no wry faces make, the world around "Here, if the muses coy, should ever design, "To smile upon the disembogueing swain; "Sacred to Cloacina and the nine, "Here let him freely scrawl the comic line "So that we all experience when we—write, "Both mental and corporeal delight.
An effort was soon after made by another of our circle, but the poetic soul of the Doctor could but ill break
this neighbourly intrusion of "prose run mad" from the "costive brain" of —————
nor, could he help replying as follows
On reading Mr. —————'s verses,
"O' Son of dulness; by the muse not warm'd,
"Whose soul, poetic pathos never charmed;
"How couldst those ————— with distracted brain,
"Disgrace the bot house by thy dog'grel strain;
"Where errors gross, and metre false appear,
"And discord dire, to wound the tuneful ear.
294 1793 May Jamaica
"How could her Cloacina blush, to see,
"Her poets Corner so disgrac'd by thee,
"Her poets Corner, where she hop'd to find
"The pure impromptu's of poetic mind.
"Not now, one son of genius will be found
"To grace with genuine wit, this hallow'd bound;
"For who d'ye think, or human or divine,
"Would think his verse, fit company for thine?
Yet was ————— sometimes more happy; for instance, on observing a pair of whales in
dalliance
"Two Whales were seen upon the sea,
"Wagging their tails in extacy.
Which Harwood could not but admit to be full of pathos and sublimity.
A retrospect of this, and various similar warfare, ever accompanied by good humour, fills me with the most pleasing reflections. In good truth nothing like it afloat, has since fallen in my way. Yet, is the society of the Thetis more interesting than in general to be found on board ship.
In the short time Mideedee was at Mr. Raymonds he learnt Otahytey ride with much confidence, accompanying us on a visit to Stoney Hill barracks. AFter his return on board, to evince his gratitude he sent Mr. Raymond a present of Otahytean cloth, and this he begged from his english shipmates. It was with the greatest difficulty he was perswaded to take milk during his illness, so strong is the aversion of these Islanders to it. In temperance he was far superior to Baubo, who required no pressing to take wine or spirits in any quantity, whereas, particularly after his excess at St. Helena, Mideedee rather avoided both. There was a jealousy between them which we much lamented and vainly strove to conquer, particularly on the part
295 Jamaica
[of] Mideedee, yet he ever considered Baubo as of the lowest order of his countrymen, which was indeed the case, nor without arrogating much to himself for being one of the Queens favorite servants. Baubo bore his illness with less temper than his countryman, having many quarrels with an old negroe nurse who attended him. On day when she was over solicitous for him to eat, after making several ineffectual attempts to explain to here that he required nothing, in rather an angry tone he said Aimah maa oboo peyah peyah "I do not want to eat, my belly is full," but taking her finger put it in his ear telling her "she might perhaps find room in his head."
The Variation of the Compass on board in Port Royal Bay pr Mean of 4 sets of Azimuths with three diffirent Compasses (not by GT) was found to be —————
Do. on shore with the same Compasses at Fort Charles pr Mean of 18 sets of Azimuths
296 1793 June July, August From Jamaica towards England
It was not until the middle of June that we left Bluefields, the Antelope packet and two merchant ships accompanying us. The plants for Kew, had been taken a second time on board previously to quitting Port Royal, at which place every thing was done to make the Providence and her Assistant as warlike as possible. In our way to the gulph of Florida we touched at the Grand Cayman having with us, in addition to our little convoy, a dismasted merchant ship that joined company in our way from Jamaica. This ship was left here. Having taken on board some turtle, the voyage was continued round the wester part of Cuba, and thence, through the Florida Gulph. On the [blank] of August both vessels were anchored safely in the Downs very little mortality having taken place among the plants; indeed of the two, we ourselves were greater sufferers from the cold than them although in ye height of Summer. But to such as have been long between the Tropics without having seen their breath the warmest air on the English Coast is at first sufficiently sharp
The vessels soon proceeded up the Thames, first to Deptford, but shortly after dropped down to Woolwich. While at the former place the plants were conveyed to Kew Gardens in a lighter, the whole being contained in six hundred and eighty six pots and tubs, and among them a few of the Bread fruit. Perhaps there never were so many plants deposited in the Royal Garden at one time from intertropical countries.
297 1793 August September Woolwich
The ship being cleared of stores an provisions, was this day put out of commission. And, as has been before mentioned, poor Mideedee also this day struck his pendant. One of the last objects which called forth the feelings of this gentle islander was the number of our countrymen suspended on gibbets in chains on the banks of the Thames as we sailed by. His soul sickened and revolted at so sad a spectacle, nor perhaps, did he ever so much wish to be again among his countrymen, where such sights are unknown, as at the moment these victims to civilized law first caught his eye.
Before we seperated "all hands" had the satisfaction of receiving the Captains public thanks of their conduct during the voyage, with an assurance that his interest and interference, "as far as it went," should be applied to our advancement. In a former letter the subject of promotion has been touched on. I shall only observe that we had yet to wait, even our truly excellent First Lieutenant, who as has been noticed was appointed to, perhaps, the worst ship in the British Navy. The health of the Second was gone past recovery. AS the last hope he was sent, poor fellow, to the Mediterranean, but it proved vain. He died about the middle of 1795. The Third, in about two months after wearing a plain coat was appointed to this ship, where (except seven or eight months in the Admiral's), he has been ever since, nor without hopes ere long of quitting the "white lappel;" Yet, if he is still to tarry longer in a gun room, and not be the supreme
298 1793 August September
upon deck; in no ship, nor with any Commander could he possibly be more happy and satisfied than in the Thetis. Still he looks back to the ship "da hab de bush."
I must now conclude, yet ere I do it may be satisfactory for you to know that we have received accounts from the West Indies of the Bread fruit being permanently established. Like other fruits of the Island, they are now sole publickly at the markets of Jamaica.
Ten years have elapsed since the humane undertaking was suggested to our gracious Sovereign by the West India planters through the medium, if I mistake not, of Sir Joseph Banks. Many unlooked for obstructions have intruded to prevent its earlier accomplishment. These however, did not damp the zeal of its promoters, who must ever feel the most cordial gratification from their persevering efforts in "doing good." That the introduction of this nutritious food into the Sugar Colonies will be attended with the most beneficial effects to the toiling Africans, can hardly be doubted. Most of the edible plants in the West Indies are know to suffer, and frequently to be wholly destroyed by the violence of hurricanes. This, we have reason to believe, will not be the case with the firm and prolific bread fruit tee, but that, in the course of a few years it will become the chief sustenance of a large proportion of our fellow creatures, whose lot in life loudly calls on our sympathy and consideration.
Farewell, the ship is fast approaching her port, where (as the first Lieutenant) plenty of employment is laid out for me. Should a save conveyance offer, these "erudities" shall take a passage accross the Atlantic for your perusal; or, perhaps I may keep them 'till we shake
299 1793 August September
hands. Some drawings are attached to them, and here I believe you have not been told that, and an artist‡
was to have accompanied the expedition, but who was left in ill health at Haslar Hospital. This obliged us all
to work with our pencils as well as we were able I am My dear James
Very faithfully and affectionately
yrs GT
Thetis off Nova Scotia
July 18th 1797
‡ Mr. Kirkland
Chapter 8 Home Tobin's Narrative