Galapagos Islands  Source  Whalesite

      THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS are a large cluster of uninhabited islands, first discovered by the Spaniards, partly seen by Vancouver, and partially explored by Captains Colnett and Hall; from their accounts we are principally enabled to give the following description.

      These islands are situated near the Equinoctial Line, and between the meridians of 89° and 92° West of Greenwich: the principal islands are, by Captain Colnett, named Chatham, Hood's, Charles, Indefatigable, James, Albemarle, Narborough, Abingdon, Bindloe, and Towers; besides these there are two smaller islands lying to the N. Westward, called Wenman's and Culpepper Islands. The whole of these islands appear to be of volcanic origin, and are in general barren, but some of the highest have a stunted kind of brushwood upon them, and all are covered with the prickly pear-tree, upon which a species of the land tortoise lives, and thrives in a wonderful manner; these animals grow to a great size, and frequently weigh several hundred pounds, forming an excellent food.

      CHATHAM ISLAND lies in a N.E. by E. and S.W. by W. direction, being 12 leagues in length and 3 leagues in breadth; its eastern point is in latitude 0° 49' S. and in longitude 89° 7' W. it is the easternmost of the Galapagos. Captain Colnett, on making this island, found a N. Easterly current setting at the rate of from 20 to 30 miles in 24 hours. On rounding the N.E. point he had 90 fathoms water, 8 or 9 miles off the land: the shore was covered with small trees and bushes without leaves, and a few spots of verdure were visible; the land appeared in small hillocks, having the appearance of habitations, while the prickly pear-trees and torch-thistles looked like their owners standing by them; in other parts the hills rose over the low land so suddenly, that at a distance they seemed so many separate islands.

      About 2 miles of the N.E. part of the island there is a small rocky islet, which is connected to the main by a reef; here were plenty of seals, and the breakers stretch out to a considerable distance from the shore. This part of the island is moderately high, and descends gradually towards the shore, which is alternately rocky and sandy; some of the rocky parts being much undulated by winding inlets, two or three miles deep, and from one to two cables' length broad. Hobbs Bay is at the north-eastern part of the island; a reef of rocks extend from the south part of this bay round to the north-west about 10 miles.

      In running along the coast, 4 or 5 miles from the land, no bottom was found at 150 fathoms; till, having passed a rocky point, which may be considered the northernmost part of the island, and hauling in towards the shore, soundings were found of 36 fathoms, diminishing, as you advance to within a mile of the coast, to 19 fathoms, fine sandy ground: this is near the middle part of the island, the Kicker Rock bearing S.W. by W. distant about 13 miles. The Kicker Rocks lie nearly 4 1/2 miles from the shore, and have a remarkable appearance; the larger one is high and perpendicular on one side, but sloping on the other, and flat at top. Very near, and parallel to, the steep side, is a rock of nearly a similar height, formed exactly like the spire of a church; these are situated near the centre of Stephens's Bay, and serve as a good mark to know it by. The land to the southward forms Stephens's Bay; the entrance to the westward, between the Kicker and the land, is very deep water, no soundings being had within three-quarters of a mile of the rock, with 50 fathoms, and then a rocky bottom; but to the eastward, between the rock and the bluff eastern point of the bay, the soundings are regular; the depth near the rock is the greatest, gradually decreasing toward the land.

      The head of Stephens's Bay has a cove of 3 fathoms water, capable of holding four

or five vessels, and sheltering them from all winds, also a fine sandy beach beneath the rocks, on which a ship may be hove down, or hauled on shore, if necessary; the land in this part is so low that, at a distance, it appears like a river or opening of the sea. Fresh water may be had near the bluff at the eastern point of the bay. S.W. of the Kicker, 7 or 8 miles distant, is an isolated barren rock, called Dalrympole's Rock; it is situated about two miles from the N.W. end of the island, and apparently has a passage between it and the island. From the north side Chatham Island appears of moderate height, the highest parts lying to the westward; the mountains gradually descend slopingly towards the sea, and form low points; many parts well wooded; the middle part, as before observed, is low, and has the appearance of being divided into two parts; the land at the western part of Stephens's Bay appears barren and rocky: the whole of the island wears indubitable marks of volcanic origin, being covered in some parts with cinders, in others having flakes of metallic clinkers, sounding like plates of iron as you tread over them; the earth appears rent in deep chasms, and the tops of many of the hills present openings of immense depth, which formerly must have been the craters of now extinguished volcanoes.

      In Stephens's Bay the flood commonly came from the eastward, and ran strongly, but the ebb, in returning, was observed to be much weaker, and set the contrary way. The rise of the tides was 12 and 13 feet, and high water, full and change, was at half past three. Wreck Bay is at the western end of the island; there is a small bank lying off the entrance of this bay, over which are only 3 fathoms water, but when within it you will have 7 fathoms.

      This island appears to be but scantily supplied with fresh water, and Captain Colnett states he saw no esculent vegetable; but in his search, on the lee side of the island, for salt, some fresh water was discovered; other places also were found near the east end of the island. Fine turtles, mullet, and other fish may be caught in a seine, and crabs, wilks, and winkles inhabit the rocks; but sharks are in great abundance. Deep water fish, as are usual to tropical latitudes, and the sea guana, which bask themselves on the rocks, like the seals, and go out to sea in droves for their prey, were plentiful; these, Captain Colnett says, are much less and much uglier than the land guanas, and may be considered alligators in miniature. The various sea-birds which frequent the coast of Peru are common here, but not so numerous; also flamingos, sea-pies, plovers,and sand-larks: there are no great variety of land-birds, but the fly-catcher and creeper of New Zealand were observed, and also a bird resembling the mocking-bird, with ringdoves and hawks: snakes, lizards, spiders, and land-tortoises were seen, but no quadruped whatever.

      HOOD'S ISLAND. -- The north end of this island, according to Captain Colnett, lies in latitude 1° 24' S. longitude 89° 47' W., and bears from the west end of Chatham Island south, distant 6 leagues: the direction of this island is nearly E.S.E. and W.N.W., its length being 4 leagues, and its breadth about 1 league; on its N.E. side there appears to be fair anchorage, in what is called Gardiner's or Commodore Rogers' Bay, in 12 fathoms water; a small islet lies off the anchorage, forming a good shelter; the bottom is a clear white sand. Off the N.W. part of the island runs a kind of reef, which breaks with considerable violence. This island has not so barren an appearance as Chatham Island, and is said to have some runs of fresh water upon it, known to the Spaniards, and affords wood for fuel, with plenty of land tortoises for food.

      M'GOWEN'S REEF. -- N.W. by W. from the N.W. point of Hood's Island, distant 4 leagues, and S.W. 18 miles from the S. point of Chatham Island, lies a reef of rocks, over which the sea breaks very high; these were seen by Captain Colnett, in 1794, and named M'Gowen's Reef.

      CHARLES ISLAND. -- To the westward of Hood's Island, about 13 leagues, is Charles Island, said to have a very good harbour; this is situated on the N.W. side, and is formed by a projecting point of land; off which lies a remarkable, high, black, ragged islet, called Rock Dismal. Vessels may lie here, in 12 fathoms, beyond the small reef that shelters the landing; this is called Essex Bay, the landing is easy, and the bottom of the bay sandy, but there are some scattered rocks about, which will much injure the cables. At the west part of the island, about 6 miles from Essex Bay, is a dark sandy beach, from which, Captain Porter says, there is a pathway, much trodden, which leads directly to the springs, situated about 3 miles from the shore; the road is steep and difficult, in some places, but the best the island affords. This place is commonly called the Black Beach. The island is of

moderate height, and has some little vegetation; some sandy beaches present places fit for landing, having small bushes upon them; and the prickly pear-tree grows here to an enormous size: it is inhabited by guanas, turtles, seals, and frequented by the same birds, reptiles, and fish, as Chatham Ísland, and, like that also, has every appearance of having been originally a volcanic production.

      To the S. Eastward lie several barren islands, which have obtained the names of Caldwell's, Gardiner's, Watson's, and Champion's Islands, &c., these have been seen only in passing; they appear mostly to have passages between them, but are little known. About five miles east of Gardiner's Island is said to be a sunken rock.

      BARRINGTON'S ISLAND. -- This is a narrow island, running N.E. and S.W. about 10 miles in length, or 15 miles, according to Captain Porter; it is not very high, but rises in hummocks; its southern part is low, and level with the edge of the sea; it was seen only at a distance, and appeared to be frequented by numerous seals, &c.

      INDEFATIGABLE ISLAND. -- This appears to be a large square island, probably the Duncan and Jervis Islands of Colnett, of which little is known; several islets are scattered about it, one of which, on its western side, seems connected with it by a narrow reef. Captain Porter landed on this island, but could not discover any harbour, or springs of fresh water; from his account it appears to be about 11 miles in length, and from it most of the other islands were visible; he made his S.W. landing place to be in latitude 0°42 14" S. and longitude 90° 27' 9" W.; his N.W. landing 0° 32' 40' S. longitude 90° 23' 54" W.; and his N.E. landing 0° 31' 12' S. and longitude 90° 12' 45" W.

      JAMES'S ISLAND is about 30 miles in length from N. to S., but its breadth is not well ascertained, as its eastern shore remains unexplored; the Buccaniers used to frequent a harbour on the N.W. part of the island, called Freshwater Bay, but Captain Colnett was not able to land there on account of the surf, nor could he discover either spring or rivulet on the beach. A little to the westward of the southern point of Freshwater Bay he landed, and walked for miles through long grass, and beneath groves of trees. About four miles south of Albanie Island is good anchorage, two miles from the shore, in 12 or 13 fathoms; the water shallows as you get nearer to the beach, but becomes rocky: here, Captain Colnett says, "is a place well calculated for the refreshment and relief of crews, after a tedious and long voyage, as it abounds with wood, has anchorage for any number of vessels, and is sheltered from all winds; a small rivulet runs into the sea, by the northern side of the hill which forms the south point of Cowan's, or Freshwater Bay; the wood near the shore is fit only for fire-wood, but, inland, the mountains are covered with trees to their very summits." Wells dug at the foot of any of the hills, the Captain thinks, will produce good fresh water; but there are salt lagoons near the beach, which might soon work their way into any wells you might dig there: wild mint, sorrel, and a plant resembling the cloth-tree of Otaheite, whose leaves are an excellent substitute for tea, grow spontaneously on the shores, and the moli algarrooa and cotton-tree abound in a superior degree of excellence. Fish are plentiful, particularly the mullett, devil-fish, and green turtle. Land tortoises are most delicious, and weigh 30 and 40 pounds, these yield two quarts of fat, which melted down, Captain C. asserts, is equal to fresh butter. The land guana also inhabits this island, and the sea guanas abound every where; they are of a light reddish colour, 2 and 3 feet long, forming regular burrows, and taking to the water when pursued. In the lagoons are a species of the teal; the birds are numerous, and of the same sort as those found on the adjacent islands. Among some bushes on the beach is the tomb of Mr. Cowan, Lieutenant of the American ship Essex, who fell here in a duel with Mr. Gamble, About 18 miles from Cowan's Bay, at the north part of the island, is Adams's Bay, near the east end of wbich there is good anchorage, in 13 fathoms, sandy ground, distant half a mile from the shore.

      ALBEMARLE ISLAND is a long, crooked, and narrow island, stretching from Cape Rose, in latitude 1° 2' S. to Albemarle Point; in latitude 0° 17'0" N. its eastern shore runs nearly straight, and is said to be without harbours; but on the western side it hollows in, from Christopher's Point to Cape Berkeley, and within this space lies the island of Narborough. Here a cove appears, called by some Port Rendezvous. Vessels may proceed to this anchorage, from the northward, through Banks's Bay, or, from the southward, through Elizabeth's Bay; in this port you may anchor in from 7 to 10 fathoms, There is a reef runs full three miles off the northernmost

point of this island; and the southern point, called Essex and Rose, have both reefs running off a full mile into the sea. There are several islets lying off the S.E. part of the island.

      Albemarle Island is the most extensive of the whole group, and abounds with volcanic productions; its plants are of a singular nature, and some of them are exceedingly beautiful, springing up between the interstices of solid black lava, in a most extraordinary manner; one of these is an odorous plant, having a leaf like velvet, which, when broken, affords a quantity of milky juice of strong astringency.

      In advancing from the southward, Captain Colnett declares "That the inhospitable appearance of the island was such as he had never before seen, nor ever beheld such wild clusters of hillocks, in such strange and irregular shapes, as the shores presented, except on the fields of ice in the Antarctic Ocean;" and Captain Vancouver, in coming from the northward, states, that "The interior of the country exhibited the most shattered, broken, and confused landscape he ever beheld, seemingly as if formed of the mouths of numerous craters, of various heights and different sizes: this opinion," continues the latter gentleman, "appeared to be well founded; since it should seem that this part of the island is either indebted for its elevation above the surface of the ocean to volcanic powers, or that at no very remote period it had been so profusely covered with volcanic matter, as to render its surface incapable of more than the bare existence of vegetables, as the few that were found were produced in the chasms or broken surface of the lava, of which the substratum of the whole island seemed to be composed."

      NARBOROUGH ISLAND is of a quadrangular form, and nearly joins, at its eastern point, the Island of Albemarle; it is formed of similar soil, and wears a similar appearance, gloomy, barren, and mountainous; like that island also, it has the remains of several volcanoes, two of which were in action so late as the year 1814; it is destitute of fresh water, and has little vegetation: the N. Western angle of this island is called Cape Douglas, lying in latitude 0° 18' S. and in longitude 91° 35' W. Between this and Cape Berkley is Banks's Bay, a wide and apparently safe opening, leading to Port Rendezvous. It also is supposed to communicate with Elizabeth Bay, to the southward.

      ELIZABETH BAY is formed between Cape Hammond, on Narborough Island, and Christopher Point, the S.W. extremity of Albemarle; into this bay Captain Colnett advanced for 2 leagues, within a mile and a half of the shore, and could find no ground with 150 fathoms. Storm petrels accompanied his ship in great numbers; a southerly wind at last springing up, the current drove him to the S.W. with great rapidity. Narborough Island is thought, by Captain Colnett, to be the highest land of all the Galapagos, but sinks down to the eastward, so as to render it a matter of doubt whether it does not join the Albemarle; he also is of opinion that these islands are the rendezvous for spermaceti whales, where they resort at certain seasons for the purpose of calving.

      Narburough Island slopes down to a point at the North, South, and East ends, and probably when explored will be found to equal the produce of the other islands. The Captain recommends the situation between the Island Narborough and Redondo for cruisers, but not to go to the northward of Redondo, for there the current sets rapidly to the N.N. Westward.

      Off the southern point of Narborough Island a reef stretches out about 1 1/2 mile, which must always have a good berth, there appears to be no other danger; the water into Decatur's Sound is deep, having 80 fathoms, coarse gravel, when in midchannel. It is therefore safe, though subject to squalls and rapid currents.

      REDONDO is a high barren rock, a quarter of a mile in circumference, and visible 8 or 9 leagues off, in clear weather, with soundings all round it, to the distance of a quarter of a mile, in 30 fathoms. It lies N. by W. 1/2 W. distant 13 miles, from Berkley Point, and is in latitude 0° 15' N. and longitude 91° 35' W. Vancouver passed through between Redondo and Cape Berkley, to the southward, and found no bottom with 120 fathoms.

      ABINGTON ISLAND lies in the direction of N. and S. and is 13 miles long, or 15, according to Captain B. Hall, and about 5 miles broad; it is high, towards its southern end, where there is some vegetation, and an anchorage, called Hull's Bay, but it slopes down to the northward, which is barren, low, and covered with hard lava; the western and northern sides are rocky, and a reef stretches out to the northward, over which the sea constantly breaks. Captain B. Hall observes,

"That at the south end of Abington Island is a bay, about a mile across, and that this point is part of an ancient stream of lava which has run down the side of a mountain to the northward, distant about 2 or 3 miles; this mountain is near 2,000 feet high, its peak slopes rapidly at first, forming a tolerably steep cone, but terminated by a broad and gently inclined base of a mile and a half. The mountain is studded on every side with mouths or craters, from whence streams of lava have formerly issued; these running far into the sea, have formed many projecting points; the western side of the island is nearly a perpendicular cliff, full a thousand feet high, and exhibits a rude stratification of lava, tuffa, and ashes, the ordinary appearance of volcanic structures. The north end of the island presents a series of long, low, and rugged streams of lava; the peak stands about one-third from the southern point, and the whole island is full of chasms and caverns, into which the tide appears to flow, through subterraneous channels.

      BINDLOES ISLAND lies E. by S. distant 5 leagues, (Captain Porter says 27 miles,) from the body of Abington, and is a rugged island, 2 leagues in length, or according to Captain Porter 15 miles, from N. to S. and one league in breadth; the land is high, and there are several rocky islets about its southern part; there is no anchorage about this island.

      TOWER'S ISLAND lies near 7 leagues to the eastward of Bindloe, and runs in an E. by S. direction, 3 leagues, being one league broad; the particulars of this island are not kdown: it was seen again in 1813 by Lieutenant Downes, who places it 45 miles to the eastward of Bindloes Island.

      WENMAN'S ISLAND lies in latitude 1° 22' 30" N. and in longitude 91° 44' W. according to Vancouver, being about 4 miles in circumference; its north-western side forms like a long saddle hill, the northern part of which is bighest in the middle, and shoots out into a long point, which, at first sight, appears like an islet, A small peaked island lies off its S.W. side, wbich, like all other parts of it, excepting that towards the north, is composed of rocky cliffs; the whole island wears a dreary and barren appearance; it is 7 or 8 miles in circumference; and Captain Porter says, "It has 2 small islets, one off the S.E., the other off the N.W. side, both being within 100 yards of the island; it is every where inaccessible, and has no place fit for anchorage."

      CULPEPPER'S ISLAND lies in latitude 1° 41' 30" N. and in longitude 91° 56' W.; it bears from Wenman's Island about N.W. by N. distant 7 leagues, and rises up in naked cliffs from the sea; off it are two small islands, or rocks, that on the eastern side is remarkable for its flat table top, and for being perforated in the middle. Captain Vancouver passed between Culpepper and Wenman Islands, and saw no danger whatever. He states his progress to the southward to have been slow, on account of the westerly and north-westerly currents; but on approaching the island of Albemarle the current slackened. The appearance of Albemarle Island from the northward then resembled a group of islands, with an extensive and distant table mountain, but, when nearer, it formed a lofty mainland. Cape Berkly shoots out, on the north side, into two long black points, or terminates in abrupt cliffs of moderate height, without any appearance of anchorage or shelter for shipping: the surf breaks violently over the shores, and verdure or vegetation appears only at the higher parts of the mountains on the western side.

      Finally, Captain Vancover observes, that the climate of the Galapagos Islands appears to be singularly temperate, the atmosphere light and exhilirating, and the wind, which chiefly came from the S.E. quarter, was very cool and refreshing; and Captain Colnett says, "I consider this one of the most delightful climates under heaven; although situated within a few miles of the equator, the barometer generally stood at 29, 84. The evenings, nights, and mornings were always clouded, and during the nights there commonly fell as heavy dews as on the main. On the whole, these islands appear to be well calculated, from their situations, to be eminently useful to shipping, and hereafter some nation may deem it worth their while to colonize and cultivate them for that purpose; water may, no doubt, be found in most of them, by digging or searching for it at the foot of the mountains, and the soil may, in various parts, be made productive."

      These islands are uninhabited, " But," says Captain Colnett,"they deserve the attention of British navigators beyond any settled habitation; of these the preference should be given to James's Island, because it is the only one where sufi, cient water was found to supply a ship. But the southernmost, or Chatham Island, is the first which should be made, in order that the true situation of the ship may

be ascertained; for thick weather and strong currents are so prevalent, that you may be otherwise mistaken. As it stands by itself there is no danger, and in Stephens's Bay 30 or 40 sail may ride in safety, besides those which might go into the cove: vessels bound round Cape Horn to any part north of the Equator, or whalers on their voyage to the North or South Pacific Ocean, or to the Gulf of Panama, will find these islands very convenient places for refitting and refreshment. They would also serve as a good rendezvous for fishing ships, being contiguous to the best fishing grounds." The variation about these islands appears to be 8° East.

John William Norie
      Piloting Directions for the East and West coasts of South America, from the River Plate to Panama ... also for the South Shetland ... and other islands in South Atlantic and Pacific oceans, ... written to accompany the new South American Pilot.
London: Printed for J. W. Norie, and Co., 1825.
pp.42-47.

Galapagos Islands  Source  Whalesite